Walking your Dog in Winter

Exercising our dogs in Winter can sometimes be a challenge, here are a few top tips to make life easier and safer for your dog.

 

A  frosty start to the day will mean that your dogs muscles are cold from the fall in temperature and also a little stiff from resting all night so will need to gradually limber up before strenuous exercise.

It is really important to give between five and ten minutes lead walking and even more so for seniors and dogs that have had an injury in the past, before letting them off the lead to run. A warm, lengthened muscle is far more prepared for a faster pace and much less prone to injury.

Old or arthritic dogs will benefit from a comfortable, warm coat to wear, this can always be removed if they start to get too warm once they have had a run around.

Be aware that the ground underfoot can change dramatically with a hard frost. The usual muddy track or gateway can become very treacherous and icy or any rutted ground frozen solid. This can cause damage to your dogs paws, joints and muscles should they run over it at speed. Also be careful when there has been snowfall and you are walking in an unfamiliar place as the snow can conceal many hidden dangers underneath. Snow can also bring out the hidden puppy even in the oldest of dogs so putting them on a long line can allow them some freedom to play without the danger of them overdoing it or injuring themselves.

If you have to walk on pavements and grit has either been laid down or spread across from the gritting lorry, then make sure you wash your dogs paws, legs and undercarriage off immediately with luke warm water on returning home, followed by towel drying as they are less likely to lick their legs if they are dry. When the pads are dry a paw balm can be rubbed in to avoid the pads cracking or becoming sore.

Here are 2 natural products that I wouldn’t be without at any time of the year but are particularly useful in Winter. All can be found on the shop.

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/green-clay

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/adore-the-paw-balm

If you walk your dog in the late afternoon or evening then remember to wear some sort of reflective clothing and also something on your dogs collar or harness. There are discs and collars that contain a battery and can be illuminated at the touch of a button. These are useful if you intend to let your dog off the lead, as you can see where the dog is at all times or if you mistime your walk and suddenly find you are walking back in fading light.  

Be extremely vigilant of the dangers of anti-freeze, which can either be spilled or sometimes end up in puddles from a passing vehicle. If you are walking in an area where this could be a possibility then keep the dog on a lead and make sure you have a bottle of water and a travel bowl with you for longer walks to avoid the temptation of them drinking from puddles. If you see your dog lick anti-freeze then they need to be taken to the vet immediately as it is extremely poisonous.  

If older or arthritic dogs suddenly stop wanting to go out for walks once the weather turns colder then it could well be that they are uncomfortable somewhere in their body and possibly have joint pain which is made worse by the cold, damp weather. Speak to your vet about any medication they are on and also look into feeding a quality joint supplement to help them feel more comfortable. They may only require a very short walk or just a wander around the garden if the weather turns very cold and miserable.

Snuffle mats, Licki mats and interactive toys are fantastic for less mobile dogs and encourage them up out of their beds and to gently move around, easing stiff joints and muscles.

A blog about using Snuffle Mats is here: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/blog/snufflmats-and-balls

Other blogs which covers injury prevention and managing senior dogs can be found here: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/repetitive-strain-injuries-in-dogs

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/holistic-care-of-senior-dogs

Caroline Hearn MICHT. Dip ICAT. MIAAT

Human, Canine & Equine Sports & Holistic Therapist

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

Joint Supplements for Dogs

Choosing a Joint supplement for our dog can be overwhelming. Andrew the founder of Jointly365, explains why researching the ingredients of a product is so important and ensures your dog gets the best joint support possible.

Here we consider the following:

What ingredients and why?

What to look for when choosing a joint supplement?

Introduction

We all know that as dogs progress from middle to old age they tend to decrease their levels of activity to some degree. This can be due to many reasons, but ageing and stiff joints are one of the most commonly seen. 

Stiff joints are caused by the degeneration of the normal joint structure which leads to the aches and pains that become worse as they get older – which some of us may have experienced ourselves…..

There are many approaches we can take to this progressive condition - such as exercise and weight management, complementary therapies, or prescription medication - and though they will not be discussed here today, it is important to remember a holistic and multi-pronged approach to stiff joints is always the best way forward.

Today we will be discussing joint supplements - one of the most commonly used methods to help dogs with stiff joints.

But with so many out there to choose from, how do you choose one that is best for your dog?

My simple approach to this is there are only two things you can do with a supplement: soothe the stiff joints themselves, and provide the necessary structural ingredients that a joint requires to function as well as it can.

If you can successfully achieve both, you are on the right track. Only achieving one or the other, is a sub-optimal and unnecessary situation.

The provision of structural ingredients is a more simple topic, and will be looked at shortly, but soothing joints and working with the bodies own natural anti-inflammatory system is a more complex area.

One of the most studied and effective methods of achieving soothing joints is by using marine sourced omega 3 oils. These are a type of essential fatty acid – EFA (that has to be eaten as it can’t be made by the body – hence ‘essential’), which moderate the bodies inflammatory response, so helping aching joints. These are hard to provide at high levels in normal food due to rancidity problems during storage.

Even though only a few EFAs such as EPA or DHA are ever discussed, there are dozens of them that contribute to the overall effect in different ways. So the quality and balance of those is critical in achieving the results we want. Some fish oils and mussel powders are of poor quality for what we are trying to do in a joint supplement. And this is where the big issue lies for choosing products – it is hard to know which is which.

Those who are more sure of their product will have conducted a clinical trial and published it, so owners and vets can scrutinise the methodology and results. And you should be looking for high levels of cold water marine sourced Omega 3’s – enough to carry a regulated claim that it can “XYZ”.

The second part of the equation is providing all the structural elements the joint requires, which is critical as this is a long term condition. Depending on the food that you feed your dog, these will be supplied in higher or lower quantities, but rarely to the levels that are provided by a quality supplement.

You should be looking for ingredients that will help the production of the cartilage and joint fluid such as glucosamine, N-Acetyl glucosamine (a special type of glucosamine that is utilised more readily by the body) and hyaluronic acid, that will all help the joint function to the best of its ability.

Additionally, we can help remove free radicals, which speed up the degradation of the joint. High levels of antioxidants such as vitamin E and C are what to look for here.

So if you are using a joint supplement now, remember the condition progresses and you may be able to help your dog more by changing to a more concentrated alternative.

With this in mind, if you feel the supplement you are currently using may not be giving the best response to what is a progressive condition, or just want to start with the better alternatives out there, consider trialling one that contains the ingredients mentioned previously.

And finally, there is also the cost element of the supplement – both financially and environmentally. Generally speaking buying one from your local veterinary practice will be more expensive than elsewhere, due to the profit margins vets operate on, though you will most likely be able to get extra advice at the same time.

And nowadays you don’t need to settle for using blister packs that aren’t recycled or even plastic pots anymore, when there are technically brilliant plastic free packaging materials around. No-one want s to use more plastic than we need to, and with around 12 million dogs in the UK now, we all need to do our bit to help the environment we love to get out into with our dogs.

However using a trusted supplier with a clinical study, the regulatory claim on the pack, who is also able to give advice, usually provides the most value.

 Jointly365 has been developed by Andrew Little BVetMed. Andrew worked in practice for many years before gaining 15 years of product development experience in major animal health companies, including with market leading joint supplements products in UK and abroad. He has combined this experience to focus on dog joints, producing a natural, sustainable, plastic free joint supplement, with both soothing and structural ingredients carefully chosen and tailored to provide the very best for your dog - that is roughly half the price of veterinary alternatives to ensure as many owners as possible can access quality care for their dogs.

 www.jointly365.com

The Importance of Nail & Paw Care in Dogs

Caroline Hearn - MICHT. Dip. ICAT, Canine & Equine Sports & Holistic Therapist

Over long nails are not only prone to getting caught and torn but there are a number of very important reasons why it is wise to keep your dogs claws fairly short.

Claws which are too long can cause pain in the toes and put additional strain on the tendons and joints. The weight is distributed backwards and causes the pad to flatten so lessening the shock absorbing properties of the pads.

After time the dogs movement is compromised and this can add strain to the shoulder and elbow joints. In normal movement as the paw hits the ground and the metacarpal or palmar pad which is the largest pad touches the ground first, then the weight is rolled forward onto the digital pads of the toes as the foot prepares to leave the ground again. This should be an easy and smooth process causing no strain, but if the dog has over long claws it is usually these that hit the ground first causing discomfort and strain higher up the leg which will eventually cause compensatory movement.

So what can be done about trimming over long claws ?

As the claws grow down so does the sensitive quick contained within so it is something that will take some time to correct. The good news is that if a very small amount of nail is cut or filed away every few days then the quick will have time to recede so you can then start the process of shortening the nails safely.

If you are confident with the clippers and your dog allows you to do it, then take a small amount off maybe once a week either with clippers or a file. Obviously dogs with white nails are easier as you can often see the quick as a guide. With black nails always err on the cautious side and do little and often.

Include the dew claws, which are often forgotten as they are tucked away on the inside of the leg and sometimes hidden by the coat. These claws grow quickly as they are not in contact with the ground and can often curl round and dig into the skin if they are not regularly trimmed. Dew claws are an essential stability aid for active dogs and assist in stabilising the lower limb and while turning at speed.

If you are nervous of cutting the nails or your dog is very difficult then ask if the veterinary nurse can help. Once you are on top of it then you can maintain the length yourself with nail trimmers or the battery powdered nail grinder which is made specifically for gradually shortening dogs claws.

Walking on pavements a couple of times a week should help keep the nails short but also it strengthens the pads, ligaments and tendons within the foot.

It is also important to trim excess long hair from underneath the pads as this hair will cause slipping on flooring and also mat up and form into knocks or clumps of hair, making standing and walking uncomfortable.

Products

There are a number of products which can help keep the pads, paws and nails in excellent condition.

Adore the Paw - Healing and Paw Balm https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/adore-the-paw

Green Clay https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/green-clay

Leucillin https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/leucillin-antiseptic-spray

Teaching Your Dog to Use a Car Ramp.

Teaching your dog to calmly use a ramp to get in and out of the car is time well spent.

Sooner or later owners of medium or large dogs that cannot be lifted in and out of the car will need some assistance due to old age, injury, recovery after surgery or mobility problems.

Jumping out of the boot of cars, even for fit healthy dogs puts a huge strain on their shoulders and forelimb joints, so it is a good idea to get dogs used to using a ramp early on before they are actually needed. For dogs that have to regularly jump out of a high vehicle such as a 4×4  a ramp can save a lot of wear and tear to joints and prevent future injury . This is as important for young dogs with fragile, growing joints as it is for seniors with signs of arthritis. As the saying goes “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”

Where many people encounter problems is when the dog, that has never been introduced to a ramp before is suddenly presented with it at a step angle propped up against a car bumper. Then either the dog rushes and tries to jump it or flatly refuses to go up it, they will also often launch themselves out of the car rather than calmly come down the ramp. This is particularly unhelpful if you dog is recovering from an injury or operation.

To get your dog calmly and confidentiality using a ramp it is best to go back to basics and get them to walk along the ramp while it is flat on the ground and even asking for sit half way across it. Then slightly incline one end by propping up on a step to give them the sensation of transferring weight onto their rear quarters and walking up an incline.

Whatever you use must create a firm base that does not move and wobble around when your dog walks on it.

At this point add an audible cue such as “step” as soon as the dog is about to place a paw on the ramp. For dogs that have limited or no vision this is invaluable as you can say the word all the way up and down the ramp and stop the second they reach the top or the bottom which gives them an idea of where they are and a feeling of safety. After a while they get to know how many steps it takes to get to the end.

Treats can be a great help by either sprinkling a few along the ramp or have someone at the other end of the ramp to offer encouragement and a very tasty treat as a reward.

With dogs that rush at the ramp or elderly dogs that have limited body strength I have found a harness really helpful to steady them and give a feeling of safety. One hand on the harness and the other cradling their bottom can help no end. With regards to the surface of the ramp, make sure it is sturdy and non slip with a defined raised edge.

Once the dog is totally comfortable going up and down the ramp on a flat surface followed by raising one end, progress to placing it on the bumper of the car. Use you chosen cue word as the dog approaches the ramp and encourage them to calmly climb,  tapping the ramp lightly with your fingers at first can sometimes help as can a treat placed at the end of their nose to guide them into the car.

A dog that waits as the boot is open is also going to make life easier for unloading them safely down the ramp so maybe some work is required with the wait command for the best results.

If the ramp is introduced carefully then should a time come when it is regularly needed it will be hassle free and such a help to your dog and also save any strain on your back if you have been attempting to lift them in and out of the car.

Caroline Hearn - Sports & Holistic Therapist MICHT. Dip.ICAT. MIAAT

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk      

Holistic Care of your Senior Dog

It is inevitable that as our beloved dogs age their requirements will change and they start to show visible signs of slowing down and a reluctance to perform tasks which they once enjoyed.

Here are a few pointers to look out for and changes to put in place which can make a positive difference to your senior dogs quality of life and make the transition into their golden years a little easier.

Possibly the first sign that your dog is feeling his advancing years is loss of mobility, general stiffness or a reluctance to do certain activities.

Noticing that our dog is limping is an easy sign to spot but sometimes things can be much more subtle. They could suddenly refuse to jump in or out of the car, be constantly licking their legs, struggle to lift themselves off of their bed, exhibit uncharacteristic behaviours or are starting to no longer be clean in the house.

Weight reduction: Excess weight certainly makes it more difficult to improve or manage health complaints, particularly where joint pain is concerned. It will also mean that the positive lifestyle changes that you put in place are less successful.

“Fat is not inert, it contains precursors of inflammatory mediators, which is like petrol on an arthritic joint fire” H Capon - Canine Arthritis Management

Pain relief and Supplements Many people are reluctant to resort to veterinary prescribed medication for pain relief but they can be really useful in the overall management of pain and inflammation and if used alongside an entirely holistic approach you can often greatly reduce the use for drugs altogether. It is important that the dog is not in pain and is encouraged to gently exercise with minimal compensatory movement, this will allow muscle tone to improve which aids in supporting fragile joints, maintaining weight loss and increasing the range of movement in joints. Non-steroidal anti inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are not without their side effects in longer term use particularly where the kidneys, liver and stomach are concerned, so this is why it is really important to make many other lifestyle changes that give an overall improvement to health and not just rely on medication.

There are many supplements available for aging dogs which can help with mobility issues brought on by old age. It is important to start early particularly with a dog who has been very active or for working and competition dogs that have suffered more wear and tear over the years. Glucosamine, chondroitin and green lipped mussel based supplements have been popular for some time in helping to improve the mobility of joints but there are also other natural ingredients that are often added such as Boswellia serrata, msm (methylsulfonylmethane) and turmeric which are used to for their anti-inflammatory properties. The inclusion of Omega 3 fatty acids in the diet is a great idea for mobility, improved coat and skin and overall reduction in inflammation.

Suitable Flooring & Home Improvements: Inappropriate flooring such as laminate and slippery tiles can really take their toll on arthritic, frail or nervous dogs. They struggle to grip on the surface underneath them causing strain on their joints, risk of falls and it can really knock their confidence. Simple additions of rubber backed runners and mats in these areas can make a huge difference.

Keeping any excess hair in between the pads, well trimmed will prevent slipping and also very importantly, keep the nails short. I will explain why this is just so important in managing the arthritic dog in the blog https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/paw-and-nail-care

Use a car ramp It is so much kinder to your dogs joints and particularly to their shoulders than jumping in and out of the car, not to mention the potential strain to your own back if you lift the dog to and from the boot of a car.

Take time to get them used to going up and down the ramp on a lead and support them by cradling chest and hind end or use a suitable harness to guide them up if necessary until they get confident using it, make it fun by using treats, it will be worth the effort and invaluable as the dog gets older. Purchase one that you find easy to use and importantly has non slip footing and ideally it should have a raised border which can help blind dogs sense that they are close to the edge of the ramp whilst walking up it.  Read our blog for more advice on this: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/teaching-your-dog-to-use-a-car-ramp

Dog beds Elderly dogs sleep a lot so providing a soft bed which offers protection and support for their joints is crucial. Some dogs love to stretch out and others curl up in a ball, so bear this in mind when choosing a bed. If you have the hard plastic beds make sure they are big enough so that the dog isn`t forced into an unnatural shape and that they have enough room to stretch out when needed, this is particularly important for neck and limb comfort. I find that senior dogs cope better with a raised bed, as this aids in getting up from a prone position. Not so high they have to jump down from it but raised enough to assist in getting on and off with ease. There are many new orthopaedic style dog beds that are really supportive and much more suitable than many blankets which end up entangled around the dogs legs and offer no support to the body.

Additional warmth can really help arthritic and elderly dogs, particularly in winter. The heat pads that are filled with wheat and placed into the microwave are very useful and for longer periods of constant heat, the Pet Remedy heat pad is excellent.

Exercise Requirements will start to change and this can become tricky in a multiple-dog household if you have an oldie that still thinks they can keep up with the younger dogs and as much as they enjoy themselves at the time the following days can see them really struggle because they have overdone it. There will come a time when the older dog needs to be walked separately so they get the benefit of exercise that is appropriate for them at their level of mobility.

Inappropriate exercise such as repeated ball throwing or vigorous tug-of-war games will have to become a thing of the past as they will undoubtedly undo any of the good work put in place with a holistic healthcare plan.

 If you have very elderly or frail dogs then all they need is a mooch around the garden or a very gentle short stroll, leaving them to dictate the pace. One of a dog’s greatest joys is sniffing and following a scent, so to prevent them from doing this is taking away one of their basic needs. It is so upsetting to see people dragging their elderly dogs behind them on a lead, it causes the dog stress and puts tremendous strain on their joints and muscles as they try and keep up with the handler.

Many dogs lose their confidence and feel vulnerable as they become frail or their eyesight and hearing fails, often becoming vocal or reactive, maybe for the first time in their life. See this as a sign that they are not coping well with the environment they are being exercised in and only allow familiar, calm dogs to interact with them or take the dog somewhere very quiet where they feel safe.

Complementary therapies are really helpful for the older dog and help keep them mobile. Massage and gentle body work is excellent and can pick up muscle weakness, compensatory movement, stiff joints and tight shortened muscles which when all the information is put together helps form a picture of how your dog is using their body and why that may be so. Ask your therapist for some homework you can do in between treatments. Heat pads are a good idea for very cold weather or use a soft fleece dog coat for additional warmth. Acupuncture is a fantastic treatment for the elderly dog and helps in managing arthritic conditions in particular. The fine needles are applied in very precise areas of the body to stimulate the release of endorphins which are the body’s own form of pain relief.

Age-related cognitive decline Is the canine equivalent of dementia which can vary in its symptoms from mild to severe. The symptoms can include staring into space, confusion at which way a door opens even though the dog may have used the same doorway for years, restlessness and becoming vocal at night, soiling in the house, and extreme changes in temperament towards people and other dogs. It is important to rule out other physical factors such as pain, infection, or sudden decline in eyesight for instance before coming up with a plan of action to manage the situation.

Although there is no cure for cognitive decline providing the dog with stimulating mind games such as hunting for treats and toys in the garden or using food puzzles and snuffle mats can help keep their minds active. The inclusion of antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids in the diet will also help in some way to slow the decline down if the initial symptoms are spotted early.

Listed below are supplements that are targeted to support the needs of the aging dog and are all available on the Hedgerow Hounds shop.

The Golden Years herbal blend is handmade specifically to support the needs of senior dogs. https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/golden-years-1