Your Dogs Dental Health

Keeping your dogs’ teeth clean and in good health is so important for their overall health and long-term wellbeing.

What is the difference between Plaque & Tartar? Plaque is a build-up of saliva, food, and bacteria that forms on the teeth, eventually turning into a brown hard substance, known as tartar. Tartar causes damage to the teeth and gums and can lead to gingivitis. The resulting bacteria can enter the bloodstream and damage the kidneys, liver, and heart.

Health dangers of a build-up of plaque, tartare, and gum disease. The bacteria that`s formed in an unhealthy mouth can travel via the bloodstream to the heart and circulatory system. This bacteria can cause heart and bowel disease and affect the immune system. There is also the added risk and expense of dogs having to receive a general anaesthetic for teeth cleaning, which is something we want to avoid if possible, particularly when caring for elderly dogs or those with other underlying health complications.

The Dental Hygiene blend has been made to improve oral health, loosen hardened tartar, prevent or greatly slow down the build-up of tartar and plaque, and assist in the maintenance of teeth and gums which is particularly useful in elderly dogs, that perhaps can no longer have a general anaesthetic.

The link to buy Hedgerow Hounds Dental Hygiene Blend is https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/dental-hygiene

There is also a blog all about dental hygiene blend here https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/dental-hygiene-formula

Other ways to speed up tartar removal and prevent further build-up.

• Feeding abrasive size-appropriate recreational raw bones and natural chews.

• Toothbrushing or cleaning with a lint cloth

Signs of tooth pain, gum disease, or mouth infection:

• Eating less, hesitancy to eat, favouring soft food over hard, dropping food and much slower eating than normal.

• Bad breath, red swollen gums, discoloured teeth.

• Inability or reluctance to open their mouth.

• Blood on gums, bedding, or toys.

• Scratching at their face or swelling and heat along the tooth line.

70% of dogs over 3 years of age have some form of dental disease. Small breeds such as toy Poodles, Cavalier King Charles, Schnauzers, and the Brachycephalic breeds are particularly prone and in larger breeds, the Greyhound is predisposed to tooth and gum disease.

Hedgerow Hounds makes veterinary-formulated supplements for dogs. The company was founded and is owned by a qualified holistic canine therapist with 30 years of experience in holistic dog care and nutrition.

Walking your Dog in Winter

Exercising our dogs in Winter can sometimes be a challenge, here are a few top tips to make life easier and safer for your dog.

 

A  frosty start to the day will mean that your dogs muscles are cold from the fall in temperature and also a little stiff from resting all night so will need to gradually limber up before strenuous exercise.

It is really important to give between five and ten minutes lead walking and even more so for seniors and dogs that have had an injury in the past, before letting them off the lead to run. A warm, lengthened muscle is far more prepared for a faster pace and much less prone to injury.

Old or arthritic dogs will benefit from a comfortable, warm coat to wear, this can always be removed if they start to get too warm once they have had a run around.

Be aware that the ground underfoot can change dramatically with a hard frost. The usual muddy track or gateway can become very treacherous and icy or any rutted ground frozen solid. This can cause damage to your dogs paws, joints and muscles should they run over it at speed. Also be careful when there has been snowfall and you are walking in an unfamiliar place as the snow can conceal many hidden dangers underneath. Snow can also bring out the hidden puppy even in the oldest of dogs so putting them on a long line can allow them some freedom to play without the danger of them overdoing it or injuring themselves.

If you have to walk on pavements and grit has either been laid down or spread across from the gritting lorry, then make sure you wash your dogs paws, legs and undercarriage off immediately with luke warm water on returning home, followed by towel drying as they are less likely to lick their legs if they are dry. When the pads are dry a paw balm can be rubbed in to avoid the pads cracking or becoming sore.

Here are 2 natural products that I wouldn’t be without at any time of the year but are particularly useful in Winter. All can be found on the shop.

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/green-clay

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/adore-the-paw-balm

If you walk your dog in the late afternoon or evening then remember to wear some sort of reflective clothing and also something on your dogs collar or harness. There are discs and collars that contain a battery and can be illuminated at the touch of a button. These are useful if you intend to let your dog off the lead, as you can see where the dog is at all times or if you mistime your walk and suddenly find you are walking back in fading light.  

Be extremely vigilant of the dangers of anti-freeze, which can either be spilled or sometimes end up in puddles from a passing vehicle. If you are walking in an area where this could be a possibility then keep the dog on a lead and make sure you have a bottle of water and a travel bowl with you for longer walks to avoid the temptation of them drinking from puddles. If you see your dog lick anti-freeze then they need to be taken to the vet immediately as it is extremely poisonous.  

If older or arthritic dogs suddenly stop wanting to go out for walks once the weather turns colder then it could well be that they are uncomfortable somewhere in their body and possibly have joint pain which is made worse by the cold, damp weather. Speak to your vet about any medication they are on and also look into feeding a quality joint supplement to help them feel more comfortable. They may only require a very short walk or just a wander around the garden if the weather turns very cold and miserable.

Snuffle mats, Licki mats and interactive toys are fantastic for less mobile dogs and encourage them up out of their beds and to gently move around, easing stiff joints and muscles.

A blog about using Snuffle Mats is here: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/blog/snufflmats-and-balls

Other blogs which covers injury prevention and managing senior dogs can be found here: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/repetitive-strain-injuries-in-dogs

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/holistic-care-of-senior-dogs

Caroline Hearn MICHT. Dip ICAT. MIAAT

Human, Canine & Equine Sports & Holistic Therapist

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

Helping your Dog Cope with the Firework Season.

What was traditionally on November 5th now seems to drag on well into the new year and can make life a misery for many dogs and their guardians.

Dogs can show their fear through obvious signs such as shaking and whining but often they also exhibit behaviours including digging and tearing at carpets and doors, excessive panting and drooling as well as vomiting and diarrhoea.

There are a number of ways of helping your dog to cope with the stresses of fireworks and early preparation is the key to success.

Here are a few ideas to help your dog cope with firework night and beyond.

Build a Den: Many dogs like to hide away when they are frightened. This can be behind the sofa, under the bed, or in tight places. As long as it is a safe place for your dog, then adapt the area to make them feel secure and comfortable.

This can be anything from placing a heavy blanket over a table, dragging the sofa out from against the wall, or covering the dogs usual crate with a thick blanket. Build the den where your dog chooses to go and not where you think it should be. It is really important that the dog is not trapped so he must be able to move away from the den or exit the crate should he wish to.

Change of routine: You will probably have to change your dogs routine so they are taken out for a walk and fed earlier than usual. It may mean a longer walk in the morning and just a toilet break in the afternoon as fireworks can often start before it even gets dark. If you have to go out make sure your dog is kept on the lead and as a precaution use a harness in case he panics and tries to get away, you will have more control and your dog is unlikely to get loose.

If your dog is very fearful then try interactive or scent games in the house and garden instead of walking. “Nose” work can be tiring as well as giving them a sense of fulfilment and stress relief.

When in the house, close the curtains to help block out some of the noise and the flashing lights. Turn up the radio and TV a little louder than usual but try to act as if nothing is wrong or your dog will pick up on it.

Dogs sense our emotions, energy and stress levels very quickly, so It is vital to be there for your dog in a supportive and upbeat manner, keeping your own energy and stress levels down to create an atmosphere where they feel safe and protected.

Natural remedies: For dogs that suffer with anxiety, a combination of natural remedies plus adaptations to lifestyle will be necessary in order to provide comfort to the dog.

Calming herbs can be very useful, although for full effect it is advisable to start a number of weeks before a stressful event. The Hedgerow Hounds Tranquil blend, has helped many dogs that suffer with stress, nervousness and anxiety. I have also had success with the homeopathic remedy called Aconite so that is worth looking into as well.

Other remedies to try include flower remedies such as Bach or those specifically for animals including Creature Comforters.

There are also the calming sprays and diffusers which contain essential oils to promote relaxation. It must be remembered that dogs have the most extraordinary sense of smell, so it is important not to overwhelm the dog by using too much or liberally applying it onto their coat. If they cant move away from the aroma this in itself can be stressful. Instead I favour putting the spray or drops onto a piece of cloth or in an area where they can chose to inhale or move away from should they wish to. The Pet Remedy, sprays and wipes are an excellent range and available on the shop. https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/pet-remedy-calming wipes https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/tranquil-relax-sooth

The Thundershirt can be useful for some dogs, but again it needs preparation before there is a stressful situation in place. Pressure vests work on the principle of compression, similar to the way an infant feels comfort when wrapped in swaddling. Pressure vests and correctly applied body wraps need to be used regularly before the actual event they are needed for. They have an accumulative effect and it is important that when they are worn initially that it is a very positive, calming and comforting experience. Take time to measure your dog according to the manufacturers guidelines, for a correct fit. It needs to be a snug fit but not so tight that the dog feels stressed and uncomfortable. For more detailed information on the use of pressure vests please read the blog https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/body-wraps-pressure-vests

I asked Tom Bysouth BSc (CBT) a force-free dog trainer and behaviourist from Progressive Dogs, for some advise around firework season.

“ As the firework season draws nearer it is not too late to plan how to help your dog through this potentially stressful period. One thing that is important to remember is that you cannot make your dogs fear of fireworks worse by comforting and supporting them. If you have a puppy or young dog you can start to create positive associations around sudden, loud or unfamiliar noises. This can be done with playing a recording of fireworks at a very low volume while your dog plays a search game, eats their food or receives fuss from you. Through repetition, and the very gradual progression of raising the volume this can help teach your dog to associate these sounds with positive experiences.”

Tom can be found at www.progressivedogs.co.uk or email tom@progressivedogs.co.uk

More information on natural ways to help your dog overcome their fears can be found at:

@HedgerowHounds or our website www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

Tranquil is a blend of herbs, roots and seeds specifically chosen to calm sensitive emotions and associated tummy upsets.

A natural, tried and tested range of products to relax body and mind and bring comfort to stressed, nervous and anxious dogs.

Kong Recipe

Interactive food dispensing toys such as a Kong and various puzzle games can be filled with tasty treats and tempting ingredients to provide mental stimulation and carry out natural behaviour such as chewing, licking, and a desire to seek and find.

When choosing an interactive toy make sure it is of an appropriate size for your dog and if you have a very powerful chewer, that the product is robust enough to withstand the forces that are going to be put upon it. The design of a Kong is ideal for filling with ingredients as it is very strong, easily cleaned, freezer friendly, comes in a variety of sizes, and crucially has a hole at both ends.

To add further interest, layer the ingredients used and experiment with different textures from crunchy fish skin cubes to soft blueberries. You can also hide the food dispenser in the garden to encourage your dog to follow the scent and claim their prize. As dogs are natural scavengers this adds to the overall enrichment experience.

If your dog needs to shed a few pounds, then taking some of their daily food ration and placing it into the Kong maybe with a few fresh steamed vegetables can keep them occupied for longer and give them a bit of a workout at the same time.

Added to raw, kibble, or cooked meat you could include ingredients such as pumpkin, sweet potato, pear, banana, natural goats’ yogurt, bone broth, pumpkin seeds, papaya, quinoa, or some of their favorite healthy treats.

Consider some of the following ingredients and add them in layers for a taste sensation.

Grated courgette and carrot,

Complete raw meal (meat, bone & offal) or cooked boneless meat of choice.

Squashed blueberries, raspberries or blackberries

Pizzle or tripe stick.

How to:

Stir the courgette, and carrot, into the raw meat and then spoon into the Kong until 2/3rds full. Insert the pizzle stick then pack the remaining wet ingredients around it. It can be served fresh or frozen.

 For a Fishy treat try:

Sprats (dried or fresh)

Small tin of drained pilchards in spring water

Half a teaspoon of Coconut oil

Tablespoon of Soaked chia seeds.

Blackberries or Blueberries

Cooked Green Beans

How to:

Chop up the ingredients and stir to incorporate. Squish the ingredients into your Kong and add a few whole sprats so they are poking out of the end for added interest.

This can be placed in the freezer for 1-2 hours for long-lasting enrichment.

Caroline Hearn

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

Emotions and the Gut

The gut is very sensitive to emotions, and I am sure we have all experienced the butterflies in the stomach, stomach cramps, that tight feeling in our guts, or acid indigestion which can come on in a split second when we are nervous, excited, fearful or anticipating a particular event. And our dogs are just the same.

If this is a brief episode, it is unlikely to have any lasting health effects, if on the other hand, it is a regular occurrence with little respite then the impact on the gut and therefore the health is huge.

There is a major factor in the link between gut health and emotions in the form of the enteric nervous system also referred to as the ENS.  

The ENS consists of millions of nerves lining the gut and specialists often call it the “second brain” as it has complex pathways to relay information back and forth from the gut to the brain as they interact. 

It is capable of shutting down digestion in times of acute stress such as in a fight or flight situation. 

Stress can be caused by many factors such as separation anxiety, excessive ball throwing so the dog is on a constant adrenaline high, inappropriate exercise for the dog’s age or mobility, picking up on the owner’s emotional stress, inability to cope in a noisy or stressful household and pain, illness or disease.

Whilst these are mainly emotionally based reactions that can be witnessed as the dog exhibiting certain behaviours, a poor quality, inappropriate diet, and exposure to toxins or chemicals can also cause the body stress, which may not show any visible signs immediately but develop over time into disease or outwardly noticeable changes in health and behaviour.

A gut that isn`t functioning correctly can manifest as the dog showing anxious, edgy, or reactive behaviour, which in turn triggers the release of stress hormones into the bloodstream such as adrenalin, and in the case of cortisol increases the level of glucose in the blood and will over time adversely affect the adrenal glands.  

Time to chill. Having time-out or chill-out days can be very beneficial to anxious, reactive, or even very active dogs, to bring them back into some sort of balance and down from their constantly stimulated state of mind.

A dog that is in a heightened state of fear, stress, panic and self-preservation will not physically be able to process and learn what is being asked of them. So by bringing down their stress levels, they will be in a better frame of mind to learn new skills, cope with their stress, and grow in confidence to make better decisions that are not fuelled by fear.

When dogs are over-excited, anxious or constantly alert to potential dangers their autonomic nervous system releases the fight or flight chemical adrenaline into the bloodstream, over time this becomes very damaging to the whole body and the gut in particular. The other subdivision of the autonomic nervous system is the parasympathetic which is sometimes called the “rest and digest system” and creates calm, relaxation, and a happy gut and this is what we are hoping to nurture on these quiet, restful days.

Anxiety can present itself in many ways, here are a few to look out for:

• Digestion problems - IBS, Diarrhoea

• Over excitability

• Reactive behaviour (aggression)

• Excessive barking

• Noise sensitivities

• Humping

• Resource guarding

• Chewing or scratching the body

• Inappropriate toileting in the house

• Excessive licking

• Ball obsession

• Pacing

There are several products on the shop to help relax and support nervous, anxious, and reactive dogs

Tranquil is an herbal blend created specifically with the nervous, anxious, reactive & stressed dog in mind https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/tranquil-relax-calm

Digest & Rest https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/digest-and-rest

Other blogs to help stressed and anxious dogs:

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/snuffle-mats-and-balls

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/anxious-dog

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/feeding-raw-bones

The Holistic Approach to Dog Worming

Talking about worms is not a pleasant subject but it is nevertheless a very important topic to explore in order to keep your dog healthy and those that are in close contact with them safe.

There are several internal parasites which can affect our dogs, sometimes with serious health implications and may carry the risk of being passed onto ourselves.

Initially, there are few symptoms that indicate our dog has worms, until there is a growing population when diarrhoea, weight loss, poor condition, irritation of the rectum are noticed. Once these are evident the dog will have reached a high level of infestation, which is something we want to avoid ever happening.

Just the mere thought of our dogs carrying parasites can cause concern for many people and it has become common practise to frequently use drugs, often combined with flea and tick treatments, in order to try and eliminate any parasites.

Anthelmintics is the name given to a group of drugs which are administered specifically to kill or expel parasitic worms. Indiscriminate worming with these drugs every one to three months, when there are no intestinal worms present is costly to your pocket, damaging to the environment and not least counterproductive to the health of your dog and ultimately increases the risk of resistance to wormers.

So what options are available to us if we want to limit the amount of chemicals used but still keep our dogs in good health? 

Here we explore the most common worms that dogs can come into contact with and what solutions are available when forming an effective worming programme. 

Roundworms:

The most common type of intestinal parasite is the roundworm (Toxocara Canis and Toxascaris leonine). They are white or very light brown in colour and grow up to several inches long.

A large percentage of puppies will be born with round worm larvae in their system which is transferred through the uterus during gestation or via the mother’s milk. Pups with a heavy worm infestation look in poor condition with a distended “pot” belly appearance and will often vomit up large amounts of roundworms which resemble spaghetti. Very heavy worm burdens have the added risk of complications such as an intestinal blockage. Roundworms can easily be passed onto humans and extra hygiene precautions are needed especially when children are handling puppies. It is important to pick up all dog faeces immediately to reduce soil contamination.

Tapeworm:

Tapeworm is the largest of the intestinal worms with multiple segments that attach to the intestinal wall via a sucker on their head piece from which additional segments grow. These segments are regularly shed and appear in the faeces or stuck to the hair under the tail. The tapeworm requires an intermediate host such as a flea or louse, so it is vital to establish a holistic regime where the control of these parasites is also considered.  

Hookworms:

Hook worms are particularly unpleasant as they attached themselves to the wall of the small intestine and suck the hosts blood. This can result in severe anaemia which may be fatal in small puppies. Hook worms are transmitted through ingesting contaminated soil and water or via the mother’s milk.

Whip worms:

These are small, thin worms with one enlarged end and if seen in the faeces resemble pieces of string. They live in the large intestine and do not shed eggs continuously, as is the case of roundworm and hookworm. Symptoms include bloody, mucous covered diarrhoea.

 Lungworm:

Incidence of Lungworm, such as French heartworm, is on the rise and cases can be found countrywide.

Lungworm needs an intermediate host such as slugs, snails, frogs and foxes but the most common form of lungworm is Crenosoma vulpis (Fox Lungworm) transmitted by the urban fox. If a dog becomes infected with French Heartworm symptoms include exercise intolerance, laboured noisy breathing, coughing and as the condition progresses excessive bleeding even from a tiny wound, weight loss, collapse and seizures. Worryingly some dogs never show any symptoms until they suddenly become extremely ill.  

A blog specifically about Lungworn can be found here https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/be-lungworm-aware

Giardia:

Puppies as well as adult dogs are often infected with this parasite which can cause severe diarrhoea. It can be present in ponds, streams and puddles which have been contaminated with faeces.

 Resistance to chemical worming preparations:

Resistance to chemical wormers has long been recognised as a growing concern in horses, cattle and sheep. According to the British Veterinary Association this is predominately caused by the overuse of wormers as an automatic, preventative method of parasite control. With the overuse of wormers in dogs becoming an issue combined with inaccurate weight measurement therefore affecting the dosage administered, resistance to these drugs is a real possibility in the near future.  

 Natural preventatives:

Many guardians are keen to take the holistic approach to a worming regime and will incorporate a number of foods or supplements within the dog’s diet. These can be extremely helpful in making the dog more unpalatable to worms and other parasites but should not be relied upon to kill internal parasites should your dog already have a worm burden. Once a clear faecal worm count is achieved then they are a good means of natural prevention. Regular worm counts should still be used to confirm that your chosen natural preventative is working effectively for your particular dog.

Pumpkin seeds:

Ground pumpkin seeds contain an amino acid called Cucurbitacin which is said to immobilise intestinal worms therefore making them easier to pass. As a preventative the dose is one teaspoon of ground seeds per 10lbs of bodyweight once a day. The seeds used can be fresh or dried.

Garlic:

Feeding garlic to dogs always causes concern but it can be useful as a preventative for worms and fleas if given correctly. Freshly crushed garlic that has been allowed to sit for around 10 minutes to active the allicin is more potent, therefore smaller amounts can be fed. It is not advisable to give large amounts of garlic or feed it over long periods of time as this increases the risk of anaemia. It should also be avoided if your dog is on blood thinners and removed from the diet for 2 weeks before and after surgery due to its blood thinning properties. As a general guide a quarter of a clove per 20kg of bodyweight is fed. Due to its very pungent smell and bitter taste it is very unlikely that your dog would eat any more than this small amount in his meals.

Diatomaceous Earth (DE):

Silicon Dioxide, commonly referred to as DE is a dietary supplement fed in powdered form which originates from fossilised water plants called Diatoms. It is believed to act as a natural ‘wormer’ but recent studies suggest that its use is limited. If you use this method, then regular worm counts will confirm if it is effective in your dog. Only use food grade DE and mix with moist food as it can easily be inhaled accidently while your dog is eating.

 Herbal “Intestinal Hygiene Control”:

There are a number of companies that offer medicinal herbal products that aim to create an adverse environment in the gut to aid in naturally repelling and assist to expel parasites. They come in the form of a small biscuit type treat or a liquid as provided by Verm-X or in a tincture such as Four Seasons. They are a cost-effective way of natural prevention and are administered as a daily dose for 3 days a week or as with the tincture, one day a month. Higher doses are needed where prevention of Lungworm is concerned.        

 Faecal Worm Counts:

Using faecal worm counts is an intelligent way of testing which parasites, if any, our dogs are carrying and to what level of infestation. It is also an accurate way to reassure us that our chosen method of worm prevention, be that natural or chemical, is working effectively. We can then make informed choices if in fact our dogs need worming at all, and if so, what product is suited to target that parasite.

A faecal egg count (FEC) is used to count the number of worm eggs in your dogs faeces and the results are shown as “eggs per gram” (epg). This is an indication of how many live adult worms are in the gut.

I have used a faecal worm count service for the last seven years and in that time of sending off regular tests on several dogs, there has only ever been one positive test which was for fox lungworm.           

Collecting and sending off a stool sample is easy and does not need a referral from your vet, although some vets do offer an in-house worm count service.

A testing kit can be purchased online and sent to you in the post, you will need a separate kit for each individual dog. You then collect a small sample of your dogs stool into the pot and return in the envelope provided. Results come back very quickly by email or text and you have a printout of the results to keep for your records. All being well there will be “none seen” written in the right-hand column against each parasite tested for. There is also a colour key which ranges from no larvae seen through to high levels noted in the sample.

The Lungworm test is carried out by collecting a small sample of your dogs stools over a period of three days, due to the fact that lungworm intermittently shed larvae. It is essential that in a multi dog household, individual stool samples are kept separate and clearly identified. You need to know which dog produced the sample. This became evident when I tested three of my dogs, who are exercised together in the exact same fields every day and only one tested positive for fox lungworm. Read our blog all about lungworm: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/be-lungworm-aware

Should you get a positive result back and it is decided that a chemical wormer is necessary then it is important to administer a product that targets those specific parasites and that the dog is accurately weighed so the correct dosage is given. Many people guess the weight of their dog and usually under rather than over estimate it. If this happens regularly, then the administered wormer will kill the weak worms leaving the more robust ones to flourish. All vet surgeries and most pet shops have digital scales you can use to establish the accurate weight of your dog.

A company that I have used for many years as they give such a superb service is Wormcount.com.

I asked Michaela Murray from Wormcount.com

How often do you recommend using a faecal worm count test?

It all depends on the risk factors surrounding your dog.  If he is an ‘urban’ dog who goes for walks around the streets on a lead and is therefore never more than 3 feet away from you, then you will always know where his nose is!  You will know if he has eaten anything such as dog or fox poo or any carrion such as dead birds.  These are all carriers of worms. He is a low-risk dog.  His worm count interval will largely depend upon previous counts.  If he has a clear count, then he may even be able to go as long as 6 months between tests.

If, on the other hand, he is a ‘country, beach or park’ dog who goes ranging off the lead and is therefore into everything, then he is a high-risk dog and you should consider testing him every 2 to 3 months.

It used to depend largely upon where you lived as to how heavy the worm burden was – especially for lungworm species – however, now that more of us take our dogs on holiday with us all over the country, then there is a much greater spread.  We have had positive cases of all 5 species of lungworm from all over the UK, even on the islands.  There is fox lungworm on the Isle of Wight, The Isle of Man and even Shetland!

Most horse owners are now aware of the problems regarding the resistance to chemical wormers and how important it is to have an appropriate testing and worming programme in place. Have you found a steady increase in dog owners now using the worm count service rather than just automatically worming every 2-3 months or has it been a slow progression?

“When we first started worm counting 20 years ago we worked solely with horse owners.  We were asked by them if we tested dogs as many horse owners also own dogs.  We had the technology and expertise to test all animals but had been rarely asked to use it.  Once we made it known that we would test any animals we were very quickly inundated with all manner of animal poo!” 

We do test thousands of dogs every year however, we also have many tortoises, lizards, bunnies, horses, zoo and farm animals as clients. 

Many of our owners still conventionally worm and use the screen we offer to check that their programme is working but the vast majority are turning away from automatically worming and are instead worming only when a positive worm screen indicates that it is necessary.  They also find the added fat and food screen that we offer within our worm count invaluable for checking that their dogs are digesting their food properly.  This is especially important when changing from conventional to raw feeding.

I see that you have added a new kit to test for Giardia, why is this and are faecal samples collected and tested in a different way for this parasite?

We added the gold standard giardia screen to our portfolio of tests as a direct result of requests from clients. There are many ‘home tests’ available on the market but most of these are simply not sensitive enough and some can only guarantee a 70% accuracy.  We will only ever use the best possible testing methods for our clients.

The sample we require is taken over one day.  If the dog passes faeces more than once in a day then you should take a small piece each time he goes.  The sensitivity of our test is so high that it only needs one day’s poo. It works very well in conjunction with our worm egg screen.

Testing for giardia can be either in response to an episode of unexplained diarrhoea or used as an annual check to ensure that all is well as giardiasis (the disease which occurs when giardia species are present) does not always show symptoms and dogs can have recurring bouts.

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

Be Lungworm Aware

Lungworm is becoming an increasing threat to dogs all across the UK due to a number of reasons including a milder and wetter climate and the increase in the number of urban foxes covering a larger area.

There are three main types of lungworm that dogs are most likely to become infected with:

Oslerus osleri (dog lungworm), Crenosoma Vulpis (fox lungworm) and Angiostrongylus vasosum

The lungworm needs a host such as a slug, snail, fox or sometimes a frog in which to grow and develop.  The dog then, sometimes accidentally, eats a slug possibly on blades of grass, on a dog toy or water bowl or comes into contact with infected fox poo.

Approximately 3 days later the larvae can be found in the dogs stomach and then they proceed to migrate to the lungs where they continue to mature until they can lay thousands of eggs which are coughed up and are passed via the dogs faeces.  The only difference with fox lungworm is that the mature worms live in the airways of the lungs and the trachea.

The parasite doesn`t pass directly from dog to dog, and other dogs in a household can be completely unaffected by it. The larvae do however pass out in the faeces of the infected dog so there is the potential for the infection to be spread that way.

Slugs and snails are partial to dog poop so if it is left out in the open they will crawl all over it and consume some, therefore becoming infected by the larvae and if eaten by a dog or a fox the cycle starts again. So it is crucial that any dog poo is picked up immediately before slugs and snails have access to it.  Also avoid leaving water bowls outside at night and bring in any bones or dog toys to prevent contamination.

The biggest worry with lungworm is that occasionally there are no symptoms present until the disease is at a critical level, hence the importance of taking a regular worm count. 

There are many symptoms that are usually present these include :

• General lethargy and intolerance to exercise

• Breathing difficulties and noisy breathing

• Loss of weight even though the food is increased

• Sore throat, swallowing hard and developing a cough or gag reflex

• Staring into space and a change of temperament, unusually unsettled

• Discharge or bleeding from the nostrils

• Chest infection or pneumonia

• Pale mucus membranes of the eyes and gums

• Excessive bleeding even from a tiny wound and blood shot eyes

• Collapse and seizures

The easiest way to regularly test for lungworm is by a faecal count. If your dog has had lungworm before or you are in an area of high risk then it is advised to test every 3-4 months or sooner should any tell tale symptoms appear. 

The company I use is www.wormcount.com and I can highly recommend them.

Due to the fact that lungworm don`t shed larvae every day it is necessary to collect a small sample from 3 days worth of poo in the hope that they are shedding on one of those days. If your dog has had lungworm it is really important to send off another test within 3 months as they may still be carrying the worms but they were not shedding larvae on those particular days of testing. There will be a blood test available shortly which gives results with 15 minutes which is obviously a great help if your dog is showing severe symptoms by that stage and a speedy diagnosis can be life saving. Currently the faecal results take from 1-3 days to come back.

Although the fox lungworm can cause serious breathing problems and additional complications it rarely causes death unlike the other types of lungworm, but it should always be treated as an emergency to prevent the deterioration of the disease.

Due to the fact that the larvae are only in the stomach for a short while there is a short window of opportunity to influence them with alternative prevention before they migrate to the lungs and trachea. If products such as Verm-x or Four seasons are used it is usually necessary to give a larger or more frequent dose when preventing lungworm, so it is recommended that the product manufacturers are contacted for the dosage in this case.

These natural products are useful to use as a prevention but should NOT be used to treat a confirmed case of lungworn infection.

Caroline Hearn MICHT, Dip.ICAT, Dip.MLD

Canine and Equine Sports & Holistic Practitioner