Dental Hygiene Formula

The dental hygiene formula for dogs has been created to clean tartar and plaque from the teeth and to improve the overall health and hygiene of the mouth and gums. Although this blend’s main aim is to improve oral health there are so many benefits to feeding this supplement for improving all aspects of health and optimal wellbeing.

The blend is made up of ingredients of the highest human-grade food quality.

The Seaweed used is a certified Organic Fucus vesiculosus Seaweed. It is traceable to the precise location of harvest, from remote areas of the British Isles and Nordic region, so you can thoroughly trust the purity and source.

High quality, pollution-free seaweed is highly nutritious and offers your dog the following benefits:

• An effective prebiotic, high in antioxidants.

• High levels of vitamins, minerals, trace elements, amino acids, antioxidants & omega fatty acids.

• Iodine for optimum thyroid function.

• Improves skin, coat, and nail health and loss of pigmentation.

• Improved oral health by preventing or aiding in the removal of tartar and plaque formation. Seaweed has antibacterial properties to act against harmful bacteria in the mouth and alongside the other ingredients used greatly aid in disease prevention of teeth and gums.

Fennel is added for its ability to inhibit the build-up of plaque due to its high levels of polyphenols. Fennel can also reduce the growth of harmful bacteria and yeast. It has good levels of manganese, magnesium, Iron, calcium, and fibre. It also helps ease any intestinal gas and aids in digestion.

Oregano has powerful anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antibacterial actions. All these properties assist in creating good oral health and helping to ease issues such as gingivitis. Due to Oregano’s high levels of antioxidants, it is also effective at balancing the gut bacteria.

What is it good for? This dental hygiene for dogs has been specifically created with oral health in mind. It can help remove the build-up of plaque and tartar, and create a healthier environment in the mouth so issues are less likely to occur. If your dog has a serious dental issue that requires veterinary intervention the blend can be used afterwards to aid in the prevention of further disease and hopefully eliminate the need for another tooth clean under anaesthetic, which is particularly important when caring for senior dogs or those with other health problems.

How to use: There are several options for using this dental blend depending on the current health of your dogs mouth and the amount of tartar you are aiming to reduce.

As with any new supplement, it is recommended that you gradually introduce the blend over 5 days. If your dog has a visible build-up of tartare, stained teeth, bad breath, and inflamed gums then it is suggested that the suggested amount is fed over the space of approximately 15 weeks, although you may see a marked improvement well before then. All the amounts to feed are dependent on your dog’s body weight and are stated on the labelling of the product.

If your dog already has clean teeth and good oral health and you would like to keep it that way as they age, then the initial “loading” amount over several weeks isn`t necessary. It is suggested that you feed the full amount for 6 weeks and then drop down to half that amount for maintenance. As an example, a 35kg Labrador would have half a teaspoon (approx. 2g of the powder) daily for 6 weeks, after this time the amount given can be halved if required to a quarter teaspoon (1g) for 5-7 days a week.

If at any time you see discolouring of the teeth, the amount can then of course be increased again to the maximum amount of half a teaspoon for that particular body weight. Each dog is an individual and the rate of plaque formation will vary depending on breed, age, diet and lifestyle so initially it may take a little while to find the exact amount that is suited to your dog.

Can I speed up the removal of hard tartar? Yes, you can speed up the process if there is hard tartare or a build-up in certain areas. Abrasive natural chews or size-appropriate recreational raw bones will help lift the tartar. Teeth cleaning with a toothbrush or lint cloth to ease any loosening tartar away. You may find there is often a stained area at the very top of the canine tooth nearest to the gum line which bones and chews can`t reach. This can be removed with a lint cloth or toothbrush once the supplement has been used for a couple of months.

Important message for certain health concerns:

Due to seaweed’s naturally occurring iodine content, it is not suitable for dogs that are undergoing veterinary treatment for hyperthyroidism or on thyroid medication. Also, avoid feeding this blend to pregnant and lactating females until the litter is weaned.

Hedgerow Hounds makes veterinary-formulated supplements for dogs. The company was founded and is owned by a qualified holistic canine therapist with 30 years of experience in holistic dog care and nutrition.

Holistic Dog Care Consultation

Sometimes we encounter a problem with our dog that requires additional expert help. These can be age-related, caused by anxiety or hyperactivity, dietary or a combination of factors which your dog is struggling with.

Caroline is a qualified canine therapist, with 30 years of experience in holistic healthcare, complementary therapies and feeding a fresh food diet.

These are some of the areas that will be covered in the consultation:

Diet. Is your dog thriving on their current diet, or would they benefit from a few changes?

Exercise. Is the exercise that your dog gets suitable for their age, fitness or mobility?

Holistic Lifestyle. This would include your dog’s daily routine & the things they find challenging.

Medication. If your dog is on medication, this may need to be taken into account, so as not to interfere with its effectiveness.

If you would like to discuss the problems you are experiencing with your dog, then a consultation with Caroline can help put you and your dog back on the right track. The consultation also comes with the option of a bespoke herbal blend and a discount code for use on the shop.

Here is the link: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/consultation

Caroline Hearn

MICHT. IIHHT. Dip.ICAT. ISCP.Dip.Canine Nutrition

Pumpkin Puree for Dogs

Making pumpkin puree for your dog is a cheap and easy way to ease an upset tummy and add valuable fibre to your pet’s meals.

Pumpkin is high in both soluble & insoluble fibre. This makes it ideal for absorbing excess water, as in diarrhoea, and adding bulk to the stool if dealing with constipation.

The fibre in pumpkin acts as a prebiotic to feed the good gut bacteria and to aid in balancing the microbiome.

It is low in calories, low carb and high in antioxidants, particularly beta-carotene.

You will need:

A Pumpkin or Butternut Squash

Boiling water - Enough to cover the chopped pumpkin in the pan

Colander or drainer

Small pots or large ice cube moulds.

How to:

Chop into large slices and then peel off the rind. Scoop out & discard any seeds.

Cut into similar-sized pieces so they cook evenly.

Simmer until the pumpkin is tender, and then drain well.

Mash with a fork or potato masher.

Freeze in small individual pots or larger ice cube trays, which can be thawed quickly when needed.

If you want to make your dog a tummy-soothing meal, there is a recipe here using pumpkin, chicken, or white fish. https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/pumpkin-chicken-mash

Why does my dog eat grass?

 Dogs eating grass is something I am asked about on a regular basis and it can cause concern for owners as they presume that their dog must be ill or lacking in nutrients of some kind. So what might our dogs be getting out of eating their daily helping of “Dr Green” and should it be something we discourage?

The most popular grass our dogs seek out is Elymus Repens commonly known as Couch grass or funnily enough Dog Grass!

The new shoots in the spring are tender, moist and sweet with natural occurring sugars but as the grass matures it can become rough with tiny barbs which you can feel if you run your fingers down the middle and outer edges. This may be relevant when the dog chooses a certain patch of grass for a specific purpose. Other herbs selected in the early months are cleavers and dandelion leaves, these are an effective spring tonic for the liver, urinary and lymphatic system, which can become sluggish over the winter months.

Some dogs, particularly those on a dry food diet may be seeking out additional water from the leaves and roots or even the dew that lays on the top of the shoots. I have observed that dogs will rush to nip out the tops of grass first thing in the morning but show very little interest in the same patch in the afternoon.

Fibre:

Vegetables and fresh grass are abundant in a variety of dietary fibres which are needed to keep the gut and the beneficial gut microbes within it functioning effectively. There is now evidence to show how the balance of our gut microbiome impacts on our mental and physical health, this also applies to our dogs. Encouraging a healthy population of good microbes means there is far less space for the bad microbes to take up residence.  

I expect most of us have seen our dogs take immense delight in consuming the droppings of animals such as cows and horses which is basically just pre-digested grass which once passed through a herbivore contains digestive enzyme and probiotic qualities.

If you feel your dog is eating too much grass or may need more fibre in their diet then try adding a few steamed vegetables or blitzing raw veg in a blender and adding it to their meals. This can include broccoli, spinach, courgette, kale, parsley, dandelion greens or even some spirulina to see if they reduce their intake. This can often stop the desire to consume large quantities of grass within a few days.  A really useful supplement with is rich in chlorophyll and green vegetables is the Greens, Seeds & Superfoods blend which can be found on this link: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/greens-seeds

Nutrients:

Grasses do not offer a large amount of nutrients to our dogs, but they do provide a certain amount of vitamin A, B, iron, fibre and silica as well as astringent properties and chlorophyll which dogs really seem to crave at certain times of the year.

There is a theory that our dogs still have some of the traits of their distant ancestors. Wolves and wild canines would hunt and kill herbivores or possibly scavenge from the carcass and consume some of the contents of the preys stomach which contain partly digested grasses, herbs and other roughage. This provides welcome moisture, fibre and enzymes to help in the process of digesting a heavy, meat rich meal.

When to investigate further:

The majority of dogs will eat grass most days and seem to thoroughly enjoy the experience. They will do this despite having a good balanced diet which includes fibre from vegetables and never have any adverse effects such as vomiting afterwards.

However, there are circumstances where further investigation is necessary. There is no doubt that some dogs will actively seek out certain grasses to induce vomiting. You may notice your dog drooling, licking their lips, swallowing hard and rushing outside to eat grass. This tends to be a rapid, frantic, grabbing at grass rather than the slow, selective grazing usually seen. After vomiting has occurred this may give temporary relief of nausea, reflux or easing of stomach irritation. Most of us would have seen our own dogs or those of others do this and they seem to be totally unaffected afterwards and back to their normal self within minutes.

If your dog is regularly eating large volumes of grass particularly after their meals and then vomiting, there could be an underlying health issue that needs investigating by your vet. Dogs may induce vomiting in order to eat the regurgitated food immediately afterwards as they have an inability to absorb nutrients and need to re-ingest the stomach contents to make it more digestible, this will also require a visit to your vet for further tests.

Eating a large amount of course grass which cannot be digested will cause stomach irritation and add volume and bulk to the stools as well as being passed out the other end almost intact. Dogs can exhibit this behavior if they are carrying a worm burden as it encourages elimination of parasites. To rule out this possibility it is important to carry out a fecal worm count to establish if this is the actual cause.   

Where to take additional care:

Often the only access dogs have to grass is from the lawn, footpaths that run alongside arable fields or from eating young shoots of barley or wheat growing in fields. All these areas are very likely to have been treated with chemicals of one form or another. We should avoid using artificial fertilisers or chemical treatments on our lawns as dogs will ingest them and also absorb the chemicals through the skin on their pads. Special care is needed to avoid arable fields at certain times of the year or at the very least keep dogs on a lead if you have no choice but to walk alongside them.

If you want to provide a clean source of fresh grass or greenery then it is easy to grow couch, barley or wheat grass in individual pots for your dog to help themselves as and when they desire. You could also make a small area in the garden where your dog can be free to sniff, explore and have access to grasses and herbs which are pollutant and chemical free.

Grass can be grown in pots for the dogs to pick at if they wish. This pot has Lemon Grass in but Wheat and Barley grass are also easy to grow and well received.

Gut Health, Immunity and Microbiome

At first glance the digestive system appears to have a very simple task of taking in food, digesting it, absorbing nutrients, and then excreting the waste, and while everything is in good working order, we never even give it a second thought. 

It is in fact an incredibly complex structure with a vast number of tasks to undertake. The more the gut is studied the more we realise the vital role it plays in achieving optimum health, disease prevention, and stabilising our emotional state.

Although the teeth are needed to some extent to bite, crush and tear off food the actual process of digestion doesn`t start until it reaches the stomach. With no digestive enzymes in the saliva to kick start it off, the food needs to quickly get where the real work begins, which is in the stomach.

 Oesophagus:

Is a long muscular tube that runs down the neck, passes through the diaphragm and uses strong contractions to push food directly into the stomach.  

 Stomach:

The stomach lies at the front of the abdominal cavity, tucked just behind the liver and acts like a big mixing bowl.  

Any incoming food is first subjected to an acid bath of around ph1, this immediately gets to work breaking down protein and also killing any harmful bacteria.

The walls of the stomach are lined with a thick mucous which provides protection from the strong acid as well as stopping the stomach from literally digesting itself.

As the stomach expands with food, a peptide hormone called gastrin is released, which in turn triggers more hydrochloric acid and digestive enzyme production.

To aid digestion even further the surface of the stomach is a mass of wrinkles and folds which expand and contract to grab food particles and perform a churning or chewing-like action.

At this point, the thick soup-like constancy of partly digested food and secretions is known as chyme.

The food has now been in the dogs stomach for anywhere between five and ten hours and its next destination is the duodenum, the first section of the small intestine.

 Pancreas

The pancreas is a small gland, which sits next to the stomach and is attached to the small intestine, here it transports digestive enzymes through two excretory ducts into the duodenum.

The enzymes it produces are amylase to help digest starch, lipase to digest fats and trypsin and chymotrypsin to deal with the protein.

Enzymes are needed to break down food into tiny molecules and allow the absorption of nutrients into the cells of the intestines which then go on to be released into the bloodstream. 

It also produces and secretes the hormones insulin and glucagon that regulate blood sugar levels. The higher the concentration of sugar in the diet the more insulin is secreted into the bloodstream and the harder the pancreas has to work.

Liver

The liver is the largest gland in the body and the only organ that has the potential to regenerate after disease or injury.

Its many crucial jobs include producing bile to assist the small intestine in breaking down and absorbing fats and to process the nutrients that are absorbed by the small intestine.

Its other roles include storing vitamins and minerals, acting as a filter for toxins in the bloodstream and as a glycogen store for when extra energy is needed. 

 Small intestine

The small intestine is made up of three sections, Duodenum, Jejunum (longest) and the ileum (shortest)

On receiving the nutrient-rich chyme from the stomach, it is joined by secretions from the liver, gallbladder and pancreas to further assist in the digestion process.

The small intestine is lined with millions of tiny finger like projections called the Villi, these act to increase the surface area in order to trap and absorb as many nutrients as possible.

Most of the absorption of nutrients takes place in the small intestine, which are then released into the bloodstream to travel throughout the body to be utilised by the cells.

The final and shortest part of the small intestine is called the Ileum, here the food gets broken down even further in preparation to enter the cecum, the first section of the large intestine.

 Large intestine :

The large intestine is made up of the cecum, colon and rectum.

Its purpose is to remove water from the faeces, keep electrolytes in balance and to prepare and temporarily store any indigestible matter for excretion.

But there is much more activity going on in the colon than just that and although not a very glamorous area of interest, it does deserve our full care and attention.

The large intestine has a high concentration of bacteria referred to as the

Microbiome.

This is a collection of microbes made up of bacteria, viruses and fungi that we all have in our gut for efficient digestion, absorption of vital nutrients and to build a strong immune system.

 Our dogs would have acquired their unique bugs from their mother at birth and developed others depending on the environment they lived in and the food they ate.

The delicate balance of the microbiome can easily be disrupted by medication such as antibiotics, periods of stress and anxiety and a poor, unsuitable diet.

When everything is in balance these good bugs work hard to extract as much nutrition as possible out of the food that is consumed and to ensure the smooth running of the whole gastrointestinal tract.  

The bacteria are also responsible for assisting in hormone production such as serotonin, which occurs in the highest concentration thorough out the lining of the gut. 

A thriving, balanced microbiome is absolutely essential for the dogs ability to resist or fight disease, control inflammation in the body and for a positive influence on their mental wellbeing.

 Rectum and anal glands.

The faeces are then ready to be expelled along with the indigestible matter and dead red blood cells that it contains. 

Ideally, the dogs stool will be quite firm, which will press on the anal glands as it is passed, causing the glands to naturally empty.     

 All disease begins in the gut - Hippocrates

 Immunity and the gut

The gut forms between 70 - 80% of the immune system and has a vital role in regulating immunity, protecting our bodies from invaders such as allergens and pathogens and controlling inflammation.  

The food we chose for our dogs and the lifestyle choices we make for them will have either a negative or positive effect on their overall gut health, ability to utilise the nutrients in the food they eat, the essential fuel to grow and repair their body and to thrive well into their senior years.                                          

 Caroline Hearn - Canine Holistic Therapist

The Holistic Approach to Dog Worming

Talking about worms is not a pleasant subject but it is nevertheless a very important topic to explore in order to keep your dog healthy and those that are in close contact with them safe.

There are several internal parasites which can affect our dogs, sometimes with serious health implications and may carry the risk of being passed onto ourselves.

Initially, there are few symptoms that indicate our dog has worms, until there is a growing population when diarrhoea, weight loss, poor condition, irritation of the rectum are noticed. Once these are evident the dog will have reached a high level of infestation, which is something we want to avoid ever happening.

Just the mere thought of our dogs carrying parasites can cause concern for many people and it has become common practise to frequently use drugs, often combined with flea and tick treatments, in order to try and eliminate any parasites.

Anthelmintics is the name given to a group of drugs which are administered specifically to kill or expel parasitic worms. Indiscriminate worming with these drugs every one to three months, when there are no intestinal worms present is costly to your pocket, damaging to the environment and not least counterproductive to the health of your dog and ultimately increases the risk of resistance to wormers.

So what options are available to us if we want to limit the amount of chemicals used but still keep our dogs in good health? 

Here we explore the most common worms that dogs can come into contact with and what solutions are available when forming an effective worming programme. 

Roundworms:

The most common type of intestinal parasite is the roundworm (Toxocara Canis and Toxascaris leonine). They are white or very light brown in colour and grow up to several inches long.

A large percentage of puppies will be born with round worm larvae in their system which is transferred through the uterus during gestation or via the mother’s milk. Pups with a heavy worm infestation look in poor condition with a distended “pot” belly appearance and will often vomit up large amounts of roundworms which resemble spaghetti. Very heavy worm burdens have the added risk of complications such as an intestinal blockage. Roundworms can easily be passed onto humans and extra hygiene precautions are needed especially when children are handling puppies. It is important to pick up all dog faeces immediately to reduce soil contamination.

Tapeworm:

Tapeworm is the largest of the intestinal worms with multiple segments that attach to the intestinal wall via a sucker on their head piece from which additional segments grow. These segments are regularly shed and appear in the faeces or stuck to the hair under the tail. The tapeworm requires an intermediate host such as a flea or louse, so it is vital to establish a holistic regime where the control of these parasites is also considered.  

Hookworms:

Hook worms are particularly unpleasant as they attached themselves to the wall of the small intestine and suck the hosts blood. This can result in severe anaemia which may be fatal in small puppies. Hook worms are transmitted through ingesting contaminated soil and water or via the mother’s milk.

Whip worms:

These are small, thin worms with one enlarged end and if seen in the faeces resemble pieces of string. They live in the large intestine and do not shed eggs continuously, as is the case of roundworm and hookworm. Symptoms include bloody, mucous covered diarrhoea.

 Lungworm:

Incidence of Lungworm, such as French heartworm, is on the rise and cases can be found countrywide.

Lungworm needs an intermediate host such as slugs, snails, frogs and foxes but the most common form of lungworm is Crenosoma vulpis (Fox Lungworm) transmitted by the urban fox. If a dog becomes infected with French Heartworm symptoms include exercise intolerance, laboured noisy breathing, coughing and as the condition progresses excessive bleeding even from a tiny wound, weight loss, collapse and seizures. Worryingly some dogs never show any symptoms until they suddenly become extremely ill.  

A blog specifically about Lungworn can be found here https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/be-lungworm-aware

Giardia:

Puppies as well as adult dogs are often infected with this parasite which can cause severe diarrhoea. It can be present in ponds, streams and puddles which have been contaminated with faeces.

 Resistance to chemical worming preparations:

Resistance to chemical wormers has long been recognised as a growing concern in horses, cattle and sheep. According to the British Veterinary Association this is predominately caused by the overuse of wormers as an automatic, preventative method of parasite control. With the overuse of wormers in dogs becoming an issue combined with inaccurate weight measurement therefore affecting the dosage administered, resistance to these drugs is a real possibility in the near future.  

 Natural preventatives:

Many guardians are keen to take the holistic approach to a worming regime and will incorporate a number of foods or supplements within the dog’s diet. These can be extremely helpful in making the dog more unpalatable to worms and other parasites but should not be relied upon to kill internal parasites should your dog already have a worm burden. Once a clear faecal worm count is achieved then they are a good means of natural prevention. Regular worm counts should still be used to confirm that your chosen natural preventative is working effectively for your particular dog.

Pumpkin seeds:

Ground pumpkin seeds contain an amino acid called Cucurbitacin which is said to immobilise intestinal worms therefore making them easier to pass. As a preventative the dose is one teaspoon of ground seeds per 10lbs of bodyweight once a day. The seeds used can be fresh or dried.

Garlic:

Feeding garlic to dogs always causes concern but it can be useful as a preventative for worms and fleas if given correctly. Freshly crushed garlic that has been allowed to sit for around 10 minutes to active the allicin is more potent, therefore smaller amounts can be fed. It is not advisable to give large amounts of garlic or feed it over long periods of time as this increases the risk of anaemia. It should also be avoided if your dog is on blood thinners and removed from the diet for 2 weeks before and after surgery due to its blood thinning properties. As a general guide a quarter of a clove per 20kg of bodyweight is fed. Due to its very pungent smell and bitter taste it is very unlikely that your dog would eat any more than this small amount in his meals.

Diatomaceous Earth (DE):

Silicon Dioxide, commonly referred to as DE is a dietary supplement fed in powdered form which originates from fossilised water plants called Diatoms. It is believed to act as a natural ‘wormer’ but recent studies suggest that its use is limited. If you use this method, then regular worm counts will confirm if it is effective in your dog. Only use food grade DE and mix with moist food as it can easily be inhaled accidently while your dog is eating.

 Herbal “Intestinal Hygiene Control”:

There are a number of companies that offer medicinal herbal products that aim to create an adverse environment in the gut to aid in naturally repelling and assist to expel parasites. They come in the form of a small biscuit type treat or a liquid as provided by Verm-X or in a tincture such as Four Seasons. They are a cost-effective way of natural prevention and are administered as a daily dose for 3 days a week or as with the tincture, one day a month. Higher doses are needed where prevention of Lungworm is concerned.        

 Faecal Worm Counts:

Using faecal worm counts is an intelligent way of testing which parasites, if any, our dogs are carrying and to what level of infestation. It is also an accurate way to reassure us that our chosen method of worm prevention, be that natural or chemical, is working effectively. We can then make informed choices if in fact our dogs need worming at all, and if so, what product is suited to target that parasite.

A faecal egg count (FEC) is used to count the number of worm eggs in your dogs faeces and the results are shown as “eggs per gram” (epg). This is an indication of how many live adult worms are in the gut.

I have used a faecal worm count service for the last seven years and in that time of sending off regular tests on several dogs, there has only ever been one positive test which was for fox lungworm.           

Collecting and sending off a stool sample is easy and does not need a referral from your vet, although some vets do offer an in-house worm count service.

A testing kit can be purchased online and sent to you in the post, you will need a separate kit for each individual dog. You then collect a small sample of your dogs stool into the pot and return in the envelope provided. Results come back very quickly by email or text and you have a printout of the results to keep for your records. All being well there will be “none seen” written in the right-hand column against each parasite tested for. There is also a colour key which ranges from no larvae seen through to high levels noted in the sample.

The Lungworm test is carried out by collecting a small sample of your dogs stools over a period of three days, due to the fact that lungworm intermittently shed larvae. It is essential that in a multi dog household, individual stool samples are kept separate and clearly identified. You need to know which dog produced the sample. This became evident when I tested three of my dogs, who are exercised together in the exact same fields every day and only one tested positive for fox lungworm. Read our blog all about lungworm: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/be-lungworm-aware

Should you get a positive result back and it is decided that a chemical wormer is necessary then it is important to administer a product that targets those specific parasites and that the dog is accurately weighed so the correct dosage is given. Many people guess the weight of their dog and usually under rather than over estimate it. If this happens regularly, then the administered wormer will kill the weak worms leaving the more robust ones to flourish. All vet surgeries and most pet shops have digital scales you can use to establish the accurate weight of your dog.

A company that I have used for many years as they give such a superb service is Wormcount.com.

I asked Michaela Murray from Wormcount.com

How often do you recommend using a faecal worm count test?

It all depends on the risk factors surrounding your dog.  If he is an ‘urban’ dog who goes for walks around the streets on a lead and is therefore never more than 3 feet away from you, then you will always know where his nose is!  You will know if he has eaten anything such as dog or fox poo or any carrion such as dead birds.  These are all carriers of worms. He is a low-risk dog.  His worm count interval will largely depend upon previous counts.  If he has a clear count, then he may even be able to go as long as 6 months between tests.

If, on the other hand, he is a ‘country, beach or park’ dog who goes ranging off the lead and is therefore into everything, then he is a high-risk dog and you should consider testing him every 2 to 3 months.

It used to depend largely upon where you lived as to how heavy the worm burden was – especially for lungworm species – however, now that more of us take our dogs on holiday with us all over the country, then there is a much greater spread.  We have had positive cases of all 5 species of lungworm from all over the UK, even on the islands.  There is fox lungworm on the Isle of Wight, The Isle of Man and even Shetland!

Most horse owners are now aware of the problems regarding the resistance to chemical wormers and how important it is to have an appropriate testing and worming programme in place. Have you found a steady increase in dog owners now using the worm count service rather than just automatically worming every 2-3 months or has it been a slow progression?

“When we first started worm counting 20 years ago we worked solely with horse owners.  We were asked by them if we tested dogs as many horse owners also own dogs.  We had the technology and expertise to test all animals but had been rarely asked to use it.  Once we made it known that we would test any animals we were very quickly inundated with all manner of animal poo!” 

We do test thousands of dogs every year however, we also have many tortoises, lizards, bunnies, horses, zoo and farm animals as clients. 

Many of our owners still conventionally worm and use the screen we offer to check that their programme is working but the vast majority are turning away from automatically worming and are instead worming only when a positive worm screen indicates that it is necessary.  They also find the added fat and food screen that we offer within our worm count invaluable for checking that their dogs are digesting their food properly.  This is especially important when changing from conventional to raw feeding.

I see that you have added a new kit to test for Giardia, why is this and are faecal samples collected and tested in a different way for this parasite?

We added the gold standard giardia screen to our portfolio of tests as a direct result of requests from clients. There are many ‘home tests’ available on the market but most of these are simply not sensitive enough and some can only guarantee a 70% accuracy.  We will only ever use the best possible testing methods for our clients.

The sample we require is taken over one day.  If the dog passes faeces more than once in a day then you should take a small piece each time he goes.  The sensitivity of our test is so high that it only needs one day’s poo. It works very well in conjunction with our worm egg screen.

Testing for giardia can be either in response to an episode of unexplained diarrhoea or used as an annual check to ensure that all is well as giardiasis (the disease which occurs when giardia species are present) does not always show symptoms and dogs can have recurring bouts.

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

The Importance of Nail & Paw Care in Dogs

Caroline Hearn - MICHT. Dip. ICAT, Canine & Equine Sports & Holistic Therapist

Over long nails are not only prone to getting caught and torn but there are a number of very important reasons why it is wise to keep your dogs claws fairly short.

Claws which are too long can cause pain in the toes and put additional strain on the tendons and joints. The weight is distributed backwards and causes the pad to flatten so lessening the shock absorbing properties of the pads.

After time the dogs movement is compromised and this can add strain to the shoulder and elbow joints. In normal movement as the paw hits the ground and the metacarpal or palmar pad which is the largest pad touches the ground first, then the weight is rolled forward onto the digital pads of the toes as the foot prepares to leave the ground again. This should be an easy and smooth process causing no strain, but if the dog has over long claws it is usually these that hit the ground first causing discomfort and strain higher up the leg which will eventually cause compensatory movement.

So what can be done about trimming over long claws ?

As the claws grow down so does the sensitive quick contained within so it is something that will take some time to correct. The good news is that if a very small amount of nail is cut or filed away every few days then the quick will have time to recede so you can then start the process of shortening the nails safely.

If you are confident with the clippers and your dog allows you to do it, then take a small amount off maybe once a week either with clippers or a file. Obviously dogs with white nails are easier as you can often see the quick as a guide. With black nails always err on the cautious side and do little and often.

Include the dew claws, which are often forgotten as they are tucked away on the inside of the leg and sometimes hidden by the coat. These claws grow quickly as they are not in contact with the ground and can often curl round and dig into the skin if they are not regularly trimmed. Dew claws are an essential stability aid for active dogs and assist in stabilising the lower limb and while turning at speed.

If you are nervous of cutting the nails or your dog is very difficult then ask if the veterinary nurse can help. Once you are on top of it then you can maintain the length yourself with nail trimmers or the battery powdered nail grinder which is made specifically for gradually shortening dogs claws.

Walking on pavements a couple of times a week should help keep the nails short but also it strengthens the pads, ligaments and tendons within the foot.

It is also important to trim excess long hair from underneath the pads as this hair will cause slipping on flooring and also mat up and form into knocks or clumps of hair, making standing and walking uncomfortable.

Products

There are a number of products which can help keep the pads, paws and nails in excellent condition.

Adore the Paw - Healing and Paw Balm https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/adore-the-paw

Green Clay https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/green-clay

Leucillin https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/leucillin-antiseptic-spray