GREEN CLAY Powder - For Pets

Our high-quality, pure Green Clay is a must-have for your natural first aid kit. Now available in a 250g bag or 650g bags for multiple dog households, horses & livestock.

Green Clay has excellent drawing properties, so it can be used for drying up wet eczema and hot spots and helping control infection in wounds and abscesses. Green Clay is so versatile and can be used for dogs, cats, horses, sheep, and other livestock. It forms a protective layer over injuries and also naturally repels insects. I have found that when treating horses and livestock that are troubled by flies, a drop of tea tree or lavender essential oil into the wet clay can further aid in repelling flies from the treated area.

It has a calming and soothing effect on a dog’s itchy or traumatized skin, breaking the itch-scratch cycle. It is completely safe if your dog accidentally licks or consumes it. The clay’s perfect partner in dealing with wounds, sores, and fragile skin is Leucillin; they complement each other brilliantly.

Green clay can be made into a thick paste with a little water and spread onto the affected area. This acts as a protective barrier for sore or fragile wounds and as the clay dries, moisture is drawn away from any wet areas of skin.

Perfect for all livestock and can be used wet or dry. A persistent wound which refused to heal, mostly caused by fly annoyance, was kept clean and protected by using the clay as a thick paste.

If used dry, it can be applied with a clean cotton ball and dusted onto the area or with a small, clean brush. This is particularly useful for instantly calming an inflamed area or itchy rash. Click here to view it on our product page: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/green-clay 

For infected areas or those that are oozing the area should be cleaned in between applications. An excellent product for this is Leucillin antiseptic spray or dropper bottle.

This product should not replace veterinary treatment if it is needed or if a serious infection is present in a wound.

WILD GARLIC, IDENTIFYING & FORAGING

Wild garlic, from spring leaf in March through to full flower in May, the leaves, buds & flowers are all beautiful to eat.

The long awaited first shoots of wild garlic (Allium ursinum) always signals spring is here. As with most wild plants, it goes by many names. Ramsons is probably the most widely used, but depending on the region, also goes by devils posy or bears garlic. It was believed that wild garlic was devoured by brown bears as they came of of hibernation, probably due to the plants cleansing, antiparasitic, antifungal and antiviral properties.

Wild garlic has broad, spear shaped leaves with a long tender stem and can cover vast areas of woodland floor and alongside the shaded banks of brooks and streams. Depending on your location, the leaves start to appear in the South around early March, but further North it can be late April, early May.

All parts of wild garlic are edible, and it is unnecessary to dig up and eat the root as the whole plant has so much to offer anyway. The leaves can be used in stir-fries, made into pesto, stirred into scone and bread recipes and make a fantastic garlic butter. The buds are beautiful pickled in cider vinegar and kimchi recipes and the flowers make salads extra special and have a very delicate garlic flavour.

It is wise to also learn how to identify the two plants that grow in the same environments and to the complete novice, look a little similar. One is Lilly of the Valley, although I have never seen it growing wild, the young leaves can look similar to wild garlic, however it doesn’t smell of garlic in the slightest and the flowers are completely different.

The other potential is Lord & Ladies when it is first emerging in spring, but again it has no garlic smell and doesn’t have the white buds & flowers, so highly unlikely you will mistake this for wild garlic. It is essential to learn what not to pick as well as what is safe to eat.

You can often smell wild garlic before you see it and the second it is picked it releases its garlicky aroma. When driving home you`ll need the windows open as the smell is overpowering, another sign you have definitely picked wild garlic!

When picking it is good practise to pick individual leaves rather than just grab handfuls. This ensures you don’t clear large areas of the plant and importantly you are not inadvertently picking other plants that are growing through it. When you are cleaning your foraged ingredients, always sort through every stem so there are no imposters that you can`t identify nestled in there.

Caroline Hearn - owner of Hedgerow Hounds, lover of herbs and keen forager.

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

Why does my dog eat grass?

 Dogs eating grass is something I am asked about on a regular basis and it can cause concern for owners as they presume that their dog must be ill or lacking in nutrients of some kind. So what might our dogs be getting out of eating their daily helping of “Dr Green” and should it be something we discourage?

The most popular grass our dogs seek out is Elymus Repens commonly known as Couch grass or funnily enough Dog Grass!

The new shoots in the spring are tender, moist and sweet with natural occurring sugars but as the grass matures it can become rough with tiny barbs which you can feel if you run your fingers down the middle and outer edges. This may be relevant when the dog chooses a certain patch of grass for a specific purpose. Other herbs selected in the early months are cleavers and dandelion leaves, these are an effective spring tonic for the liver, urinary and lymphatic system, which can become sluggish over the winter months.

Some dogs, particularly those on a dry food diet may be seeking out additional water from the leaves and roots or even the dew that lays on the top of the shoots. I have observed that dogs will rush to nip out the tops of grass first thing in the morning but show very little interest in the same patch in the afternoon.

Fibre:

Vegetables and fresh grass are abundant in a variety of dietary fibres which are needed to keep the gut and the beneficial gut microbes within it functioning effectively. There is now evidence to show how the balance of our gut microbiome impacts on our mental and physical health, this also applies to our dogs. Encouraging a healthy population of good microbes means there is far less space for the bad microbes to take up residence.  

I expect most of us have seen our dogs take immense delight in consuming the droppings of animals such as cows and horses which is basically just pre-digested grass which once passed through a herbivore contains digestive enzyme and probiotic qualities.

If you feel your dog is eating too much grass or may need more fibre in their diet then try adding a few steamed vegetables or blitzing raw veg in a blender and adding it to their meals. This can include broccoli, spinach, courgette, kale, parsley, dandelion greens or even some spirulina to see if they reduce their intake. This can often stop the desire to consume large quantities of grass within a few days.  A really useful supplement with is rich in chlorophyll and green vegetables is the Greens, Seeds & Superfoods blend which can be found on this link: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/greens-seeds

Nutrients:

Grasses do not offer a large amount of nutrients to our dogs, but they do provide a certain amount of vitamin A, B, iron, fibre and silica as well as astringent properties and chlorophyll which dogs really seem to crave at certain times of the year.

There is a theory that our dogs still have some of the traits of their distant ancestors. Wolves and wild canines would hunt and kill herbivores or possibly scavenge from the carcass and consume some of the contents of the preys stomach which contain partly digested grasses, herbs and other roughage. This provides welcome moisture, fibre and enzymes to help in the process of digesting a heavy, meat rich meal.

When to investigate further:

The majority of dogs will eat grass most days and seem to thoroughly enjoy the experience. They will do this despite having a good balanced diet which includes fibre from vegetables and never have any adverse effects such as vomiting afterwards.

However, there are circumstances where further investigation is necessary. There is no doubt that some dogs will actively seek out certain grasses to induce vomiting. You may notice your dog drooling, licking their lips, swallowing hard and rushing outside to eat grass. This tends to be a rapid, frantic, grabbing at grass rather than the slow, selective grazing usually seen. After vomiting has occurred this may give temporary relief of nausea, reflux or easing of stomach irritation. Most of us would have seen our own dogs or those of others do this and they seem to be totally unaffected afterwards and back to their normal self within minutes.

If your dog is regularly eating large volumes of grass particularly after their meals and then vomiting, there could be an underlying health issue that needs investigating by your vet. Dogs may induce vomiting in order to eat the regurgitated food immediately afterwards as they have an inability to absorb nutrients and need to re-ingest the stomach contents to make it more digestible, this will also require a visit to your vet for further tests.

Eating a large amount of course grass which cannot be digested will cause stomach irritation and add volume and bulk to the stools as well as being passed out the other end almost intact. Dogs can exhibit this behavior if they are carrying a worm burden as it encourages elimination of parasites. To rule out this possibility it is important to carry out a fecal worm count to establish if this is the actual cause.   

Where to take additional care:

Often the only access dogs have to grass is from the lawn, footpaths that run alongside arable fields or from eating young shoots of barley or wheat growing in fields. All these areas are very likely to have been treated with chemicals of one form or another. We should avoid using artificial fertilisers or chemical treatments on our lawns as dogs will ingest them and also absorb the chemicals through the skin on their pads. Special care is needed to avoid arable fields at certain times of the year or at the very least keep dogs on a lead if you have no choice but to walk alongside them.

If you want to provide a clean source of fresh grass or greenery then it is easy to grow couch, barley or wheat grass in individual pots for your dog to help themselves as and when they desire. You could also make a small area in the garden where your dog can be free to sniff, explore and have access to grasses and herbs which are pollutant and chemical free.

Grass can be grown in pots for the dogs to pick at if they wish. This pot has Lemon Grass in but Wheat and Barley grass are also easy to grow and well received.

Gut Health, Immunity and Microbiome

At first glance the digestive system appears to have a very simple task of taking in food, digesting it, absorbing nutrients, and then excreting the waste, and while everything is in good working order, we never even give it a second thought. 

It is in fact an incredibly complex structure with a vast number of tasks to undertake. The more the gut is studied the more we realise the vital role it plays in achieving optimum health, disease prevention, and stabilising our emotional state.

Although the teeth are needed to some extent to bite, crush and tear off food the actual process of digestion doesn`t start until it reaches the stomach. With no digestive enzymes in the saliva to kick start it off, the food needs to quickly get where the real work begins, which is in the stomach.

 Oesophagus:

Is a long muscular tube that runs down the neck, passes through the diaphragm and uses strong contractions to push food directly into the stomach.  

 Stomach:

The stomach lies at the front of the abdominal cavity, tucked just behind the liver and acts like a big mixing bowl.  

Any incoming food is first subjected to an acid bath of around ph1, this immediately gets to work breaking down protein and also killing any harmful bacteria.

The walls of the stomach are lined with a thick mucous which provides protection from the strong acid as well as stopping the stomach from literally digesting itself.

As the stomach expands with food, a peptide hormone called gastrin is released, which in turn triggers more hydrochloric acid and digestive enzyme production.

To aid digestion even further the surface of the stomach is a mass of wrinkles and folds which expand and contract to grab food particles and perform a churning or chewing-like action.

At this point, the thick soup-like constancy of partly digested food and secretions is known as chyme.

The food has now been in the dogs stomach for anywhere between five and ten hours and its next destination is the duodenum, the first section of the small intestine.

 Pancreas

The pancreas is a small gland, which sits next to the stomach and is attached to the small intestine, here it transports digestive enzymes through two excretory ducts into the duodenum.

The enzymes it produces are amylase to help digest starch, lipase to digest fats and trypsin and chymotrypsin to deal with the protein.

Enzymes are needed to break down food into tiny molecules and allow the absorption of nutrients into the cells of the intestines which then go on to be released into the bloodstream. 

It also produces and secretes the hormones insulin and glucagon that regulate blood sugar levels. The higher the concentration of sugar in the diet the more insulin is secreted into the bloodstream and the harder the pancreas has to work.

Liver

The liver is the largest gland in the body and the only organ that has the potential to regenerate after disease or injury.

Its many crucial jobs include producing bile to assist the small intestine in breaking down and absorbing fats and to process the nutrients that are absorbed by the small intestine.

Its other roles include storing vitamins and minerals, acting as a filter for toxins in the bloodstream and as a glycogen store for when extra energy is needed. 

 Small intestine

The small intestine is made up of three sections, Duodenum, Jejunum (longest) and the ileum (shortest)

On receiving the nutrient-rich chyme from the stomach, it is joined by secretions from the liver, gallbladder and pancreas to further assist in the digestion process.

The small intestine is lined with millions of tiny finger like projections called the Villi, these act to increase the surface area in order to trap and absorb as many nutrients as possible.

Most of the absorption of nutrients takes place in the small intestine, which are then released into the bloodstream to travel throughout the body to be utilised by the cells.

The final and shortest part of the small intestine is called the Ileum, here the food gets broken down even further in preparation to enter the cecum, the first section of the large intestine.

 Large intestine :

The large intestine is made up of the cecum, colon and rectum.

Its purpose is to remove water from the faeces, keep electrolytes in balance and to prepare and temporarily store any indigestible matter for excretion.

But there is much more activity going on in the colon than just that and although not a very glamorous area of interest, it does deserve our full care and attention.

The large intestine has a high concentration of bacteria referred to as the

Microbiome.

This is a collection of microbes made up of bacteria, viruses and fungi that we all have in our gut for efficient digestion, absorption of vital nutrients and to build a strong immune system.

 Our dogs would have acquired their unique bugs from their mother at birth and developed others depending on the environment they lived in and the food they ate.

The delicate balance of the microbiome can easily be disrupted by medication such as antibiotics, periods of stress and anxiety and a poor, unsuitable diet.

When everything is in balance these good bugs work hard to extract as much nutrition as possible out of the food that is consumed and to ensure the smooth running of the whole gastrointestinal tract.  

The bacteria are also responsible for assisting in hormone production such as serotonin, which occurs in the highest concentration thorough out the lining of the gut. 

A thriving, balanced microbiome is absolutely essential for the dogs ability to resist or fight disease, control inflammation in the body and for a positive influence on their mental wellbeing.

 Rectum and anal glands.

The faeces are then ready to be expelled along with the indigestible matter and dead red blood cells that it contains. 

Ideally, the dogs stool will be quite firm, which will press on the anal glands as it is passed, causing the glands to naturally empty.     

 All disease begins in the gut - Hippocrates

 Immunity and the gut

The gut forms between 70 - 80% of the immune system and has a vital role in regulating immunity, protecting our bodies from invaders such as allergens and pathogens and controlling inflammation.  

The food we chose for our dogs and the lifestyle choices we make for them will have either a negative or positive effect on their overall gut health, ability to utilise the nutrients in the food they eat, the essential fuel to grow and repair their body and to thrive well into their senior years.                                          

 Caroline Hearn - Canine Holistic Therapist

Emotions and the Gut

The gut is very sensitive to emotions, and I am sure we have all experienced the butterflies in the stomach, stomach cramps, that tight feeling in our guts, or acid indigestion which can come on in a split second when we are nervous, excited, fearful or anticipating a particular event. And our dogs are just the same.

If this is a brief episode, it is unlikely to have any lasting health effects, if on the other hand, it is a regular occurrence with little respite then the impact on the gut and therefore the health is huge.

There is a major factor in the link between gut health and emotions in the form of the enteric nervous system also referred to as the ENS.  

The ENS consists of millions of nerves lining the gut and specialists often call it the “second brain” as it has complex pathways to relay information back and forth from the gut to the brain as they interact. 

It is capable of shutting down digestion in times of acute stress such as in a fight or flight situation. 

Stress can be caused by many factors such as separation anxiety, excessive ball throwing so the dog is on a constant adrenaline high, inappropriate exercise for the dog’s age or mobility, picking up on the owner’s emotional stress, inability to cope in a noisy or stressful household and pain, illness or disease.

Whilst these are mainly emotionally based reactions that can be witnessed as the dog exhibiting certain behaviours, a poor quality, inappropriate diet, and exposure to toxins or chemicals can also cause the body stress, which may not show any visible signs immediately but develop over time into disease or outwardly noticeable changes in health and behaviour.

A gut that isn`t functioning correctly can manifest as the dog showing anxious, edgy, or reactive behaviour, which in turn triggers the release of stress hormones into the bloodstream such as adrenalin, and in the case of cortisol increases the level of glucose in the blood and will over time adversely affect the adrenal glands.  

Time to chill. Having time-out or chill-out days can be very beneficial to anxious, reactive, or even very active dogs, to bring them back into some sort of balance and down from their constantly stimulated state of mind.

A dog that is in a heightened state of fear, stress, panic and self-preservation will not physically be able to process and learn what is being asked of them. So by bringing down their stress levels, they will be in a better frame of mind to learn new skills, cope with their stress, and grow in confidence to make better decisions that are not fuelled by fear.

When dogs are over-excited, anxious or constantly alert to potential dangers their autonomic nervous system releases the fight or flight chemical adrenaline into the bloodstream, over time this becomes very damaging to the whole body and the gut in particular. The other subdivision of the autonomic nervous system is the parasympathetic which is sometimes called the “rest and digest system” and creates calm, relaxation, and a happy gut and this is what we are hoping to nurture on these quiet, restful days.

Anxiety can present itself in many ways, here are a few to look out for:

• Digestion problems - IBS, Diarrhoea

• Over excitability

• Reactive behaviour (aggression)

• Excessive barking

• Noise sensitivities

• Humping

• Resource guarding

• Chewing or scratching the body

• Inappropriate toileting in the house

• Excessive licking

• Ball obsession

• Pacing

There are several products on the shop to help relax and support nervous, anxious, and reactive dogs

Tranquil is an herbal blend created specifically with the nervous, anxious, reactive & stressed dog in mind https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/tranquil-relax-calm

Digest & Rest https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/digest-and-rest

Other blogs to help stressed and anxious dogs:

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/snuffle-mats-and-balls

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/anxious-dog

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/feeding-raw-bones

The Stinging Nettle

Once prized as a valuable source of food, medicine, and material to make cloth and cord, the nettle (Urtica dioica) is now seen as a troublesome weed to be vigorously cut, strimmed and sprayed to control or kill it.

The humble stinging nettle goes by many names including burn nettle, devil’s plaything, and hoky-poky. Nettle grows abundantly and is probably the first wild plant we learn to identify as children, and once touched it leaves a lasting memory and earns our respect.

The serrated-edged leaves are covered in tiny hollow hairs, sharp enough to penetrate our skin to inject us with their cocktail of chemicals including formic and oxalic acid, histamine, and serotonin, leaving us with an itchy rash and peculiar numb sensation around the area.

Historically, nettle has been used as a food and fabric dye and its strong fibres can be made into clothing and strong cord. During World War 1, when cotton was very scarce, nettle fibres were cultivated on a huge scale to make uniforms for soldiers, and in World War 11 nettles were used to dye any camouflaged fabrics. Being such a hardy and vigorous grower, nettles would have been a welcome substitute for green vegetables in times of rationing, and if the tops are frequently nipped out it can be used as a pick and come again leaf or dried and used as a tea.

Uses: Medicinally, nettle is used (both topically & internally) to treat arthritic joint pain, seasonal allergies, eczema, and anaemia. It is also a great tonic for the hair and scalp. Nettle is best picked from February until early May, as after that time they become coarse and the flower heads start to appear. Older nettle, which is around knee height and beginning to come into seed, is best left alone as it will contain calcium oxalate crystals and cause irritation to the gut and urinary tract. Save these nettles for picking their seeds only.

If you have a patch that you frequently pick or cut back so there is constant new growth you can get another couple of months of use from it but you probably won’t get the benefit of nettle seeds. Maybe have one patch for picking leaves and another for harvesting seeds!

Nutritional value: Stinging nettle is incredibly nutritious with excellent levels of iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium, vitamins A, B, C & K, silica, and Quercetin as well as being high in chlorophyll. Nettle is excellent as a general tonic to boost lethargy and as a vitamin and mineral boost. It works to balance the body, including calming the nervous system.

The seeds can be harvested and dried around July to September, they have a lovely nutty taste and can be sprinkled onto salads or stirred into natural yoghurt or smoothies. The plant puts a lot of energy into making seeds and they are fantastic to eat for an energy boost and also traditionally used to support adrenal fatigue and the feeling of being burnt out. Pick on a sunny day and spread them out to dry on a large baking tray or even an old bed sheet if you are drying a large volume. Stir and turn occasionally so they are thoroughly dry, which may take a whole day in the sun.

Nettles are a tasty alternative to spinach or kale and work well in pasta, lasagne, pesto and even stirred into cake, scone and bread recipes. Just don’t be scared of them, yes you may need gloves to pick them, but once lightly boiled, steamed or blitzed in a blender they lose their sting. Many people overboil nettles, particularly when making soup and the end result is greyish-green and revolting. Think along the lines of preparing spinach, so 4-5 minutes of steaming or a brief stir fry, will preserve the flavour, colour, and those important nutrients.

Wildlife: Nettle is very valuable to wildlife and provides food, shelter, and protection for many species. Butterflies such as the peacock, tortoiseshell, red admiral, and the comma rely heavily on the nettle. Ladybirds will often be found on nettles and they will eat any unfortunate creepy crawlies that land, they are also a big hit with finches especially when the plant goes to seed and the pheasants just love pecking at the drooping seed heads.

Recipe for Nettle Hair Tonic-Rinse

This recipe can be used for us as a final hair rinse to stimulate hair growth or as a coat rinse for your dog to ease itchy skin.

You will need:

A large bunch of freshly picked nettles

Sprig of Rosemary

An optional drop of lavender essential oil or rosemary oil (best avoided in epileptic animals, just to be extra safe)

500ml water

500ml Organic Apple Cider Vinegar

Put the nettles & rosemary sprig into a large pan with the water and cider vinegar and gently simmer for 40 - 50 minutes. Just check it halfway through cooking and top it up with more water if necessary. Take off the heat and set aside to cool before stirring in a drop of essential oil if you choose to do so. Strain through a muslin cloth or fine sieve over a bowl and then bottle. Use as a final rinse after shampooing or as a cooling coat rinse on a hot day.

Store in the fridge and use within 2 weeks. You could also find some suitable small containers to hold liquid and pop a bit extra in the freezer. Just remember to label it so it`s not confused with nettle soup!

Cream of Nettle Soup

This is a simple but very tasty way to cook and serve young nettle tops.

1 colander of washed, young nettle tops

I medium onion or shallot

1 tablespoon of salted butter

1.5 pints of light stock such as chicken or vegetable

Seasoning & grated nutmeg to finish

A quarter pint of milk

I tablespoon flour

1 Tablespoon of sour cream

Pick through the nettles as you wash them, removing any damaged leaves or coarse stalks, and then place them into a saucepan with enough salted water to cover. Gently simmer for 10 minutes and then drain.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in another pan and add the chopped onion to cook until softened, stir in the flour, and then add the stock, stirring all the time until it comes to a boil & starts to thicken. Add the drained nettles, salt and pepper and heat through for 10 minutes. Liquidize the soup in a blender until smooth. Return it to the pan and then add warm milk and stir.

Garnish with a spoon of sour cream, grated nutmeg or a squeeze of lemon juice.

Caroline Hearn ~ Hedgerow Hounds

Titre Testing Your Dog

Vicky Simon BVet Med Vet MF Hom. MRCVS

What is a Titre Test?

A titre test is a blood test which measures the antibody levels to various disease in your dogs' blood. If they have adequate antibody levels present, then this is the best evidence we can get showing proof of immunity. If they already have immunity present, demonstrated by the antibodies, the they do not need a booster vaccination that year. In fact, a titre test is better proof of immunity than vaccinating, as some dogs do not respond to vaccinations, although this is unusual. If you have a non-responder (more common in black & tan breeds) then you could give a vaccine every year and they may never produce antibodies or mount an adequate immune response, and so not be protected at all.

These antibody levels reflect humoral immunity, and allow us to measure this part of the immune system to a degree, although we still do not know how the body will respond in the face of actual disease. We are not able to measure cellular immunity, except by challenge – exposing the body to a disease and seeing if it responds by producing antibodies etc. Cellular immunity involves memory cells in the immune system, which can circulate for years, or a lifetime. These cells effectively ‘remember’ previous diseases that the body has been exposed to, so if they are encountered again, they can quickly ramp things up and get the humoral immune cells pumping out those antibodies again. If you encounter a disease your body has never met before, then the immune system has to start from scratch and so the response is much slower, allowing the disease to take a greater hold in the system.

What Diseases are Tested?

The titre tests we use in dogs measure antibody levels to Parvovirus, Distemper and Hepatits - the 3 core diseases dogs are vaccinated against.

You can titre test for Leptospirosis, but it is considered fairly pointless, as the antibodies for Lepto are known to be very short lived in the system, often no longer being present after as little as 6 months following vaccination. The absence of antibodies, as explained above, does not necessarily mean the absence of immunity.

Titre test are available for cats, but as cats tend to be much less amenable than dogs to having blood taken, they are less popular, and so less frequently stocked by veterinary practices. Bloods can be sent off for cats, for a titre test to be performed externally, if your vet does not stock the test. If sent to a specific lab, then the price does not differ hugely to the in-house test stocked by vets offering this option.

What will Happen on the Day?

All that will happen on the day of a titre test is that your vet will take a blood sample from your dog, and make note of their previous vaccine history. That's it! If the test is run in- house it can take as little as 20-30mins to have the results back, but this obviously depends on availability of staff to run the test. If it is sent off then timing may vary. In-house testing kits give you a score from 0-6. 0 is negative, and 1-6 is positive. The higher the score, the higher the antibody levels in your pets system, but any presence of antibodies gives evidence of immunity.

​When Should I do a Titre Test?

Titre tests can be done at any time. However, the best time to do one is shortly before your dog is due their booster vaccination, so you know whether they need it or not. Booster vaccinations for Distemper, Hepatitis & Parvovirus are due every 3 years, after the 1 year booster.

Titres are especially important in young dogs, as if a puppy finishes their vaccine course before 16 weeks then the vaccines may not have been effective, due to maternal antibodies being present, which can block the action of the vaccine. This is why a 1 year booster is given, to catch any that were missed the 1st time around, but if your pups 1st vaccine worked perfectly well, then they shouldn’t be due a booster until 3 years later. A titre test can be performed any time from 1 month after a vaccination.

How Often Should I do a Titre Test?

Titre tests should be performed as often as needed. If you have a strong positive result then it is best to repeat the test every 3 years. If they have any borderline or very low results, then it may be worthwhile repeating the test the following year, especially if it is the Parvovirus result that is low, as this is the most prevalent of the tested diseases in the UK. Your results will be sent out to you by your vet shortly after the blood is taken, with recommendations for when a test will next be due.

Why Should I Titre Test?

Titre tests allow you to avoid over-vaccination of your pet. At each vaccination, there is always a risk of a vaccine reaction, either immediately, or a delayed reaction. There are also various immune mediated diseases that have been linked with vaccination, with evidence suggesting the vaccine can act as a trigger for the disease process. These include immune mediated haemolytic anaemia, immune mediated thrombocytopaenia & immune mediated skin diseases. It has also been observed that some chronic diseases, such as skin conditions, can aggravate following vaccination each time, even if only minimally.

In summary, a titre test is a great way of keeping your pets vaccinations to the minimum required, and so allowing them to be as healthy as possible.

More details of a practise near you that carries out titre testing can be obtained from https://www.vaccicheck.com

Vicky Simon BVetMed. Vet MF Hom. MRCVS

www.holisticvetvicky.co.uk