The Holistic Approach to Dog Worming

Talking about worms is not a pleasant subject but it is nevertheless a very important topic to explore in order to keep your dog healthy and those that are in close contact with them safe.

There are several internal parasites which can affect our dogs, sometimes with serious health implications and may carry the risk of being passed onto ourselves.

Initially, there are few symptoms that indicate our dog has worms, until there is a growing population when diarrhoea, weight loss, poor condition, irritation of the rectum are noticed. Once these are evident the dog will have reached a high level of infestation, which is something we want to avoid ever happening.

Just the mere thought of our dogs carrying parasites can cause concern for many people and it has become common practise to frequently use drugs, often combined with flea and tick treatments, in order to try and eliminate any parasites.

Anthelmintics is the name given to a group of drugs which are administered specifically to kill or expel parasitic worms. Indiscriminate worming with these drugs every one to three months, when there are no intestinal worms present is costly to your pocket, damaging to the environment and not least counterproductive to the health of your dog and ultimately increases the risk of resistance to wormers.

So what options are available to us if we want to limit the amount of chemicals used but still keep our dogs in good health? 

Here we explore the most common worms that dogs can come into contact with and what solutions are available when forming an effective worming programme. 

Roundworms:

The most common type of intestinal parasite is the roundworm (Toxocara Canis and Toxascaris leonine). They are white or very light brown in colour and grow up to several inches long.

A large percentage of puppies will be born with round worm larvae in their system which is transferred through the uterus during gestation or via the mother’s milk. Pups with a heavy worm infestation look in poor condition with a distended “pot” belly appearance and will often vomit up large amounts of roundworms which resemble spaghetti. Very heavy worm burdens have the added risk of complications such as an intestinal blockage. Roundworms can easily be passed onto humans and extra hygiene precautions are needed especially when children are handling puppies. It is important to pick up all dog faeces immediately to reduce soil contamination.

Tapeworm:

Tapeworm is the largest of the intestinal worms with multiple segments that attach to the intestinal wall via a sucker on their head piece from which additional segments grow. These segments are regularly shed and appear in the faeces or stuck to the hair under the tail. The tapeworm requires an intermediate host such as a flea or louse, so it is vital to establish a holistic regime where the control of these parasites is also considered.  

Hookworms:

Hook worms are particularly unpleasant as they attached themselves to the wall of the small intestine and suck the hosts blood. This can result in severe anaemia which may be fatal in small puppies. Hook worms are transmitted through ingesting contaminated soil and water or via the mother’s milk.

Whip worms:

These are small, thin worms with one enlarged end and if seen in the faeces resemble pieces of string. They live in the large intestine and do not shed eggs continuously, as is the case of roundworm and hookworm. Symptoms include bloody, mucous covered diarrhoea.

 Lungworm:

Incidence of Lungworm, such as French heartworm, is on the rise and cases can be found countrywide.

Lungworm needs an intermediate host such as slugs, snails, frogs and foxes but the most common form of lungworm is Crenosoma vulpis (Fox Lungworm) transmitted by the urban fox. If a dog becomes infected with French Heartworm symptoms include exercise intolerance, laboured noisy breathing, coughing and as the condition progresses excessive bleeding even from a tiny wound, weight loss, collapse and seizures. Worryingly some dogs never show any symptoms until they suddenly become extremely ill.  

A blog specifically about Lungworn can be found here https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/be-lungworm-aware

Giardia:

Puppies as well as adult dogs are often infected with this parasite which can cause severe diarrhoea. It can be present in ponds, streams and puddles which have been contaminated with faeces.

 Resistance to chemical worming preparations:

Resistance to chemical wormers has long been recognised as a growing concern in horses, cattle and sheep. According to the British Veterinary Association this is predominately caused by the overuse of wormers as an automatic, preventative method of parasite control. With the overuse of wormers in dogs becoming an issue combined with inaccurate weight measurement therefore affecting the dosage administered, resistance to these drugs is a real possibility in the near future.  

 Natural preventatives:

Many guardians are keen to take the holistic approach to a worming regime and will incorporate a number of foods or supplements within the dog’s diet. These can be extremely helpful in making the dog more unpalatable to worms and other parasites but should not be relied upon to kill internal parasites should your dog already have a worm burden. Once a clear faecal worm count is achieved then they are a good means of natural prevention. Regular worm counts should still be used to confirm that your chosen natural preventative is working effectively for your particular dog.

Pumpkin seeds:

Ground pumpkin seeds contain an amino acid called Cucurbitacin which is said to immobilise intestinal worms therefore making them easier to pass. As a preventative the dose is one teaspoon of ground seeds per 10lbs of bodyweight once a day. The seeds used can be fresh or dried.

Garlic:

Feeding garlic to dogs always causes concern but it can be useful as a preventative for worms and fleas if given correctly. Freshly crushed garlic that has been allowed to sit for around 10 minutes to active the allicin is more potent, therefore smaller amounts can be fed. It is not advisable to give large amounts of garlic or feed it over long periods of time as this increases the risk of anaemia. It should also be avoided if your dog is on blood thinners and removed from the diet for 2 weeks before and after surgery due to its blood thinning properties. As a general guide a quarter of a clove per 20kg of bodyweight is fed. Due to its very pungent smell and bitter taste it is very unlikely that your dog would eat any more than this small amount in his meals.

Diatomaceous Earth (DE):

Silicon Dioxide, commonly referred to as DE is a dietary supplement fed in powdered form which originates from fossilised water plants called Diatoms. It is believed to act as a natural ‘wormer’ but recent studies suggest that its use is limited. If you use this method, then regular worm counts will confirm if it is effective in your dog. Only use food grade DE and mix with moist food as it can easily be inhaled accidently while your dog is eating.

 Herbal “Intestinal Hygiene Control”:

There are a number of companies that offer medicinal herbal products that aim to create an adverse environment in the gut to aid in naturally repelling and assist to expel parasites. They come in the form of a small biscuit type treat or a liquid as provided by Verm-X or in a tincture such as Four Seasons. They are a cost-effective way of natural prevention and are administered as a daily dose for 3 days a week or as with the tincture, one day a month. Higher doses are needed where prevention of Lungworm is concerned.        

 Faecal Worm Counts:

Using faecal worm counts is an intelligent way of testing which parasites, if any, our dogs are carrying and to what level of infestation. It is also an accurate way to reassure us that our chosen method of worm prevention, be that natural or chemical, is working effectively. We can then make informed choices if in fact our dogs need worming at all, and if so, what product is suited to target that parasite.

A faecal egg count (FEC) is used to count the number of worm eggs in your dogs faeces and the results are shown as “eggs per gram” (epg). This is an indication of how many live adult worms are in the gut.

I have used a faecal worm count service for the last seven years and in that time of sending off regular tests on several dogs, there has only ever been one positive test which was for fox lungworm.           

Collecting and sending off a stool sample is easy and does not need a referral from your vet, although some vets do offer an in-house worm count service.

A testing kit can be purchased online and sent to you in the post, you will need a separate kit for each individual dog. You then collect a small sample of your dogs stool into the pot and return in the envelope provided. Results come back very quickly by email or text and you have a printout of the results to keep for your records. All being well there will be “none seen” written in the right-hand column against each parasite tested for. There is also a colour key which ranges from no larvae seen through to high levels noted in the sample.

The Lungworm test is carried out by collecting a small sample of your dogs stools over a period of three days, due to the fact that lungworm intermittently shed larvae. It is essential that in a multi dog household, individual stool samples are kept separate and clearly identified. You need to know which dog produced the sample. This became evident when I tested three of my dogs, who are exercised together in the exact same fields every day and only one tested positive for fox lungworm. Read our blog all about lungworm: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/be-lungworm-aware

Should you get a positive result back and it is decided that a chemical wormer is necessary then it is important to administer a product that targets those specific parasites and that the dog is accurately weighed so the correct dosage is given. Many people guess the weight of their dog and usually under rather than over estimate it. If this happens regularly, then the administered wormer will kill the weak worms leaving the more robust ones to flourish. All vet surgeries and most pet shops have digital scales you can use to establish the accurate weight of your dog.

A company that I have used for many years as they give such a superb service is Wormcount.com.

I asked Michaela Murray from Wormcount.com

How often do you recommend using a faecal worm count test?

It all depends on the risk factors surrounding your dog.  If he is an ‘urban’ dog who goes for walks around the streets on a lead and is therefore never more than 3 feet away from you, then you will always know where his nose is!  You will know if he has eaten anything such as dog or fox poo or any carrion such as dead birds.  These are all carriers of worms. He is a low-risk dog.  His worm count interval will largely depend upon previous counts.  If he has a clear count, then he may even be able to go as long as 6 months between tests.

If, on the other hand, he is a ‘country, beach or park’ dog who goes ranging off the lead and is therefore into everything, then he is a high-risk dog and you should consider testing him every 2 to 3 months.

It used to depend largely upon where you lived as to how heavy the worm burden was – especially for lungworm species – however, now that more of us take our dogs on holiday with us all over the country, then there is a much greater spread.  We have had positive cases of all 5 species of lungworm from all over the UK, even on the islands.  There is fox lungworm on the Isle of Wight, The Isle of Man and even Shetland!

Most horse owners are now aware of the problems regarding the resistance to chemical wormers and how important it is to have an appropriate testing and worming programme in place. Have you found a steady increase in dog owners now using the worm count service rather than just automatically worming every 2-3 months or has it been a slow progression?

“When we first started worm counting 20 years ago we worked solely with horse owners.  We were asked by them if we tested dogs as many horse owners also own dogs.  We had the technology and expertise to test all animals but had been rarely asked to use it.  Once we made it known that we would test any animals we were very quickly inundated with all manner of animal poo!” 

We do test thousands of dogs every year however, we also have many tortoises, lizards, bunnies, horses, zoo and farm animals as clients. 

Many of our owners still conventionally worm and use the screen we offer to check that their programme is working but the vast majority are turning away from automatically worming and are instead worming only when a positive worm screen indicates that it is necessary.  They also find the added fat and food screen that we offer within our worm count invaluable for checking that their dogs are digesting their food properly.  This is especially important when changing from conventional to raw feeding.

I see that you have added a new kit to test for Giardia, why is this and are faecal samples collected and tested in a different way for this parasite?

We added the gold standard giardia screen to our portfolio of tests as a direct result of requests from clients. There are many ‘home tests’ available on the market but most of these are simply not sensitive enough and some can only guarantee a 70% accuracy.  We will only ever use the best possible testing methods for our clients.

The sample we require is taken over one day.  If the dog passes faeces more than once in a day then you should take a small piece each time he goes.  The sensitivity of our test is so high that it only needs one day’s poo. It works very well in conjunction with our worm egg screen.

Testing for giardia can be either in response to an episode of unexplained diarrhoea or used as an annual check to ensure that all is well as giardiasis (the disease which occurs when giardia species are present) does not always show symptoms and dogs can have recurring bouts.

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

Winter Bone Broth

As we approach the coldest months of the year we turn to foods which offer comfort and warmth.

We can also provide our dogs with a seasonal variation on the usual bone broth recipe by adding ingredients which are traditionally used to support joint health and immunity.

As game is currently in season, try and find bones from venison, duck, pheasant or partridge. Duck and chicken feet are a good source of glucosamine, chondroitin and gelatine and after many hours of cooking will dissolve into the broth.

Avoid bones with a large amount of fat, skin and central marrow, which will just produce a very fatty and oily broth. Either remove the fat and marrow or chose a different type of bone. If your dog is prone to pancreatitis it is very important to select lean bones, remove any visible fat before cooking and skim off any that comes to the surface during cooking.

You will need approximately 4 - 5 pounds of bones of varying types and size to make a good broth. Some bones, such as ribs will completely break down into the broth, whereas harder bones will be lifted out in large pieces.

You will need:

A slow cooker or large stock pot with a lid

Bones such as duck, venison, pheasant, partridge, chicken, turkey, ox tail, beef, lamb ribs etc.

Enough water to just cover the bones when they are placed in the cooking pot.

1 stick of celery roughly chopped

Cider apple vinegar - 2 tablespoons

Ginger – 1 thumbnail size piece of fresh or half a teaspoon of powered

Turmeric 1 teaspoon (fresh or dried)

Cinnamon - quarter of a teaspoon

Shiitake mushrooms- quarter of a cup (dried or fresh)

1 level tablespoon Autumn Harvest herbal blend

2 grinds of black pepper

How to make:

Place your chosen bones into the pot and pour on the water so they are just covered. Add the cider apple vinegar and black pepper. The slow cooker is used on its lowest setting or a stock pot placed over a very low heat for anywhere between 24 – 30 hours, although some people prefer to leave the broth cooking gently for nearer to 36 hours .You may need to top up with water if the levels are getting very low.

In the remaining 2 hours of cooking add the spices, mushrooms and vegetables.

When complete, turn off the heat and carefully remove the bones with a slotted spoon plus skim off any excess fat that may be on the surface.

As the resulting broth starts to cool, transfer into ice cube trays or suitable sized pots to place in the fridge or freezer for later use. If you want your broth as a set jelly then you could stir in a level tablespoon of gelatine powder.

Store in the fridge and use within 1 week or keep in the freezer and use within 4 months.

Add the defrosted broth to meals, any recipes you make or gently warm through to provide a warm, comforting treat on a very chilly day.

**It is essential to remove the bones and dispose of them safely and under no circumstances should they be fed **

Feeding Vegetables to Dogs

Should I add vegetables or not? If so which type?

So should we bother feeding vegetables to our dogs and will it even benefit them?

There are many benefits to including some fresh vegetables to our dogs diet. It is important that they are prepared in a way that our dogs can digest them either through cooking, steaming or blitzing to a smoothie. We should all be including more veg in our diets so maybe the easiest way is just to prepare a bit extra when you are preparing your own meals and then set it aside for your dog.

Phytonutrients

The term ‘phytonutrients’ is a name for a variety of compounds only found in plants that have a vast array of health-giving properties. They are covered in far greater detail in the vegetable and fruit section and are a useful way to provide additional micronutrients and antioxidants to your dog’s diet. If the inclusion of fruit, vegetables and seeds is a new experience for your dog, then start off by incorporating tiny amounts until his system adapts and you find the ingredients that suit your particular dog.

Probably the best known of the phytonutrients are carotenoids and flavonoids.

Carotenoids are plant pigments responsible for the vibrant red, yellow, orange and green hues found in vegetables, fruits and plants that can play an important role in protecting cells against harmful effects of light, air and pollution. Beta-carotene, lycopene and lutein are all different types of carotenoid that can easily be included in the diet. They act as anti-oxidants which protect cells from free radicals, which are substances that work to destroy cell membranes and DNA.

 Foods that are rich in carotenoids are:

·        Lutein: collard greens, Swiss chard, lettuce, spinach, kale and dandelion greens.

·        Lycopene: red/orange bell peppers, watermelon, pomegranate, apples, mint and blackberries.

·        Beta-carotene: carrots, sweet potato, broccoli and romaine lettuce.

·        Flavonoids: These give berries their red, blue and purple colour and can be included in the diet in the form of blueberries, blackberries, raspberries and bilberries.

So, what does the inclusion of veg and fruit have offer to our dogs?

They provide a wealth of vitamins, minerals, anti-oxidants and fibre, including vitamins A, B, C, E and K, and minerals such as calcium, potassium and magnesium.

Anti-oxidants protect against many diseases due to the aging process, and for a degenerative condition such as progressive retinal atrophy a diet rich in anti-oxidants is the only known way to slow down the deterioration of this eye disease.

Fresh vegetables also encourage enzyme production and offer a gentle cleansing and balancing effect on the ph. levels of the body.

Depending on the type of vegetable, they provide soluble and insoluble fibre, which benefit the gut bacteria, and can bind to and remove certain toxins as well as adding bulk and moisture to the faeces.

With intensively farmed animals and soil depletion becoming a concern, our food is lacking in the level of nutrients that it provided many years ago, so the addition of vegetables, herbs, berries and some grains is a way to try and fill any nutritional gaps. The more variety we can add into our dog’s diet the less we will have to rely on dietary supplements.

An ideal herbal supplement in the Hedgerow Hounds range is Nature’s Boost, which combines vegetables, herbs, seeds & superfoods.

How to prepare and feed.

Due to the fact that dogs cannot digest the cellulose in vegetables, the best way to serve is to blend in a food processor to break down the plant’s tough cell wall, until they resemble a thick smoothie consistency, which also mimics the partly digested contents of a prey animal’s stomach.

Other options would be to lightly steam them or finely grate them into the food.

If you want to make larger batches up or you are lucky enough to grow your own veg and have a glut in the summer, then the pureed, pulped veg can be frozen into ice cube trays or pots for convenience.

If they are served whole many dogs just lift pieces of veg out, eat around them in the bowl, or pass them out the other end undigested, to make full use of the nutrients they need to be broken down.

A good feeding guideline would be 7% vegetables and 3% berries, although if you are looking to reduce the overall cost of home-prepared food, or if the dog needs to lose weight, then more veg can be added to make up a quarter of the meal.

The addition of vegetables will change the overall percentages, so subtract from the muscle meat and not the bone or offal which provides the calcium and vitamins. So, for instance a usual 80-10-10 ratio would become 70% (meat) 10% (bone) 10% offal and 10% vegetables.

Start off with a small amount and then monitor how your dog is handling the inclusion of vegetables in his diet.

It is not essential to feed vegetables every day, but even three times a week will be beneficial, rotating different types and changing with the seasons where possible

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

Garlic- Friend or Foe?

 If there is one ingredient that causes controversy in the diet of dogs that would have to be garlic. Some people swear by its health-giving properties and others would never consider feeding it to dogs.

Garlic tends to be grouped in with all members of the onion family, which can be very toxic to dogs.

Garlic (Allium sativum) is a pungent member of the onion family. It grows as a bulb which contains between 10-20 individual teardrop shaped segments called cloves.

It has long been used to enhance the flavour of our meals and for its medicinal use as it possesses antibacterial, antifungal and anti-parasitic properties.

It does however need to be fed with care when incorporating it into the diet of our dogs. The main reason for this is that garlic contains thiosulphate, which if consumed in large amounts or over long periods of time can decrease the number of red blood cells, resulting in Heinz body hemolytic anemia.

The active constituents of garlic include alliin, alliinase, quercetin, anthrocyanins, amino acids and volatile oils. Garlic contains 33 sulphur compounds and the compound that you can smell once a garlic clove is cut or crushed is called allicin.

Allicin is an unstable compound that dissipates rapidly when exposed to air and heat so for maximum effect it is best consumed within 10 minutes of crushing. The familiar garlic odour can travel throughout the body when consumed, and we can smell it on our breath and through our skin. This also applies to our dogs which is thought to make them more unpalatable to parasites of all kinds, hence why people use it as a natural preventative at certain times of the year.

When it can be useful:  

Before adding any supplementation to your dog’s diet, it is important to establish what you are aiming to achieve by doing so and what benefits there are for your dog.

The most frequent reason for including garlic is for the control of parasites, be that internal or external in the form of fleas, ticks, and mites.

It can be a useful addition to the diet as a small part of the overall natural regime of preventing fleas and ticks if you live in a high-risk area of the country. If you intend on using garlic as a means of internal parasite control it is still essential that you regularly use faecal worm counts to establish that your natural method of worm control is working for your particular dog.

The only time I include a form of garlic into my dogs diet is during the short growing season of wild garlic, also known as Ramsons, which is a broad leaf garlic occurring in late spring with a much milder action than the pungent bulb garlic. I have also witnessed dogs self-selecting wild garlic whilst out on a walk and consuming small amounts of the leaf and flower as it emerges in the spring.

When to avoid:

Garlic can interact with certain medications such as insulin, heart medication, immune suppressants, blood thinners, chemotherapy drugs and it should also be avoided if your dog has any pre-existing anaemia.

There is believed to be an increased risk of side effects in the Akita and Shiba Inus, so if you have these breeds, it is advisable to research further before use.  

Due to its blood thinning properties, it is recommended that garlic is removed completely from the diet for two weeks prior to any surgery and for a week post-surgery.

Avoid feeding to pregnant and lactating females and bear in mind that it can taint the milk.

Do not feed to puppies under six months of age and use caution in dogs that are 6 – 12 months of age.

How to feed:

If your dog doesn’t have any of the contraindications mentioned earlier and you want to include garlic into your dog’s diet then here are a few guidelines.

It is not recommended or necessary to feed garlic in large amounts or for a long period of time. If you feel that it will be a useful addition over the summer months for added flea control, then freshly crushed garlic will be more effective from smaller doses.

Dosage:

Due to the incredibly pungent aroma and bitter taste of fresh garlic it is highly unlikely that even the greediest of dogs will want to eat large amounts in one sitting or consume it on a very regular basis.

So, if your dog is not on any contraindicated medication or has any existing health issues which could be compromised by feeding garlic, the following dosage for short term use should not cause any problems.

Based on the guidelines of holistic vet, Dr. Karen Becker, she recommends freshly crushing a clove of garlic, setting it aside for 10 minutes before adding to the food at a rate of quarter of a teaspoon for every 15 pounds (6.8kg) of bodyweight. This suggested dose is for use 2-3 times a week, just for the duration of the flea and tick season and not all year round.

This does also depend on your dog’s tolerance of garlic, as it can cause intestinal upset and if they find it palatable enough to eat in their meals.

As a rule, one clove, when crushed or sliced equals one teaspoon of garlic.

You can of course buy a garlic supplement specifically for dogs in a tablet form and because these are more palatable than fresh garlic it is important to follow the dosage guidelines of the product carefully.

Caroline Hearn MICHT, Dip.ICAT. MIAAT

Sports & Remedial Massage and Canine Holistic Therapist

LAMENESS AND REPETITIVE STRAIN IN DOGS

Caroline Hearn MICHT. MIAAT. Dip.ICAT Dip MLD Dip. Myofascial Release.

Human, Equine & Canine Sports & Holistic Therapist

As a canine massage therapist I see many dogs with injuries and lameness caused by repetitive strain, which can easily be avoided or kept to a minimum with some lifestyle changes. The main causes seem to crop up time and time again so here are the most common factors and ways to avoid injury to your dog.

1. Ball and Frisbee throwing:

   Constant chasing after a ball or combined with leaping in the air to catch a frisbee is probably one of the main causes of injuries, lameness and strain that I see. The action of a burst of energy followed by a sudden stop, a skid then a rapid turn will put huge strain on the dogs shoulders, forelegs, neck, pelvis and spine.

   Like us, dogs will favour one side of their body so will always prefer to turn in the same direction causing over use of muscles and joints. This repetitive action is very unnatural for a dog and if left to chase and hunt in the wild they would never continuously sprint with a sudden halt afterwards.

 Also ball throwing for some dogs can mean they are on a constant adrenaline high so causing emotional as well as physical stress. This sort of exercise can cause micro trauma often not shown by the dog at the time of chasing as the sheer thrill they get can often mask any discomfort. But with time the dog will compensate for the discomfort elsewhere in their body and become lame.   Instead, encourage hunting for a hidden ball or a treat in some undergrowth and reward with either giving the dog the ball to carry or a single retrieve of a ball placed ahead. Keep it to an absolute minimum and find other ways to interact with your dog . Always warm your dogs muscles up with at least 5 minutes on the lead before letting them off to run at speed.                          

2. Jumping out of cars, off furniture and down stairs:                                               

All these activities put a lot of strain on your dogs shoulders and forelegs. The added problem with jumping out of the boot of cars is that your dogs muscles will be cold and it is often from a great height onto a hard surface, usually followed by immediately running off to start a walk. Teaching your dog to use a ramp will save so much strain on their body. Read our blog https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/teaching-your-dog-to-use-a-car-ramp for more advice          

Teaching your dog to calmly go up and down a car ramp is so important. Invaluable for young dogs, elderly or frail dogs or those recovering from injury or surgery. Saves a lot of strain on your own back too if you are currently lifting them in and out of the boot!

Stair gates are really useful for preventing dogs running up and down stairs and providing a comfortable and supportive bed for them near to you to encourage them not to lay on the furniture. Small dogs can be lifted off the sofa or a  ramp used for larger dogs.

3. Slippery Flooring :

Dogs falling and slipping on laminate or tiled floors can cause so many injuries and really make an older dog lose their confidence. Use non slip mats and rugs in the areas that the dog uses and also around their bedding and in particular food and water bowls. Dogs with arthritis or mobility problems are better eating and drinking from raised bowls and make sure they are on a non slip mat. They find lowering their head difficult so often splay their legs in order to reach, this can cause really nasty falls and make them nervous at feed times. 

Raised bowls for water and food can be made cheaply by stacking bowls together until you reach the ideal height for your dog. Always place on a non slip surface.

4. Inappropriate Exercise:

Problems can occur when dogs exceed their fitness levels or are taken beyond their capability due to age or mobility. 

Some dogs have to make do with a quick stroll round the block in the week but are taken out for hours at the weekend and become exhausted making them more susceptible to injury such as cruciate ligament strain or tears.  

Puppies and young dogs should be exercised very carefully as their bones, joints and growth plates are prone to injury causing lifelong issues. 

Senior dogs should not be forced  to walk but allowed to go at a pace that they are comfortable with and which improves their mobility. It is so upsetting to see old dogs being made to walk beyond their comfort zone and it causes pain, crushes their spirit and is detrimental to their long term welfare. 

Dogs that pull hard on the lead and lean right over to one side almost scrabbling along are heading for joint and muscular damage. Use a harness and teach your dog to walk calmly at heel or enlist the help of a reputable trainer or behaviourist . It will be money well spent and save a fortune in vets fees long term. 

Adapting your dogs routine will ensure many years of injury free activity and ease of movement in their senior years. There are some good supplements available to help support joint pain and inflammation and used in conjunction with long term lifestyle changes they can be really beneficial. Although the use of supplements can be helpful, they have limited value unless they are used in conjunction with lifestyle changes and there has been an accurate diagnosis as to the source of the pain and mobility problem.

Skin Care Essentials

Caring for our animals in Summer & Winter brings many challenges, not least trying to maintain a healthy skin, avoiding sores and cuts and effectively dealing with skin abrasions that can occur.

There are four products that I wouldn`t be without at any time of the year but they really are an essential in the colder and wetter months in order to quickly deal with any issues and prevent infection taking hold.

GREEN CLAY has excellent drawing properties so can be used for drying up wet eczema and hot spots and helping control infection in wounds and abscesses. Green Clay is so versatile and can be used for dogs, cats, horses, sheep and other livestock. It forms a protective layer over injuries and also naturally repels insects. I have found when treating horses and livestock which are troubled by flies, a drop of tea tree or lavender essential oil into the wet clay can further aid in repelling flies away from the treated area.

Used dry, it has a calming and soothing effect on a dog’s itchy or traumatised skin, breaking the itch, scratch cycle and is completely safe should your dog accidentally lick or consume it. The clays perfect partner in dealing with wounds, sores and fragile skin is Leucillin, they compliment each other beautifully.

Green clay can be made into a thick paste with a little water and spread onto the effected area. This acts as a protective barrier for sore or fragile wounds and as the clay dries, moisture is drawn away from any wet areas of skin. It is now available in two sizes (250g & 650g bags) on the shop https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/green-clay

Leucillin Is an extraordinary product that I have to hand at all times. It works wonders on so many skin issues, wounds, cuts and scrapes as well as an effective and kind skin cleanser, with the added bonus that it doesn`t sting on application. It also makes a brilliant hand sanitiser!

It is available in four sizes from the small dropper bottle which is ideal for use to cleanse eyes, for tiny animals or those that are very scared by the sound of sprays, to the large 500ml spray which is great value for larger animals such as horses or livestock or a multi dog household.

Leucillin contains the active ingredient Hypochlorous, this is a naturally occurring chemical in the body produced by white blood cells. Hypochlorous is one of the most effective and efficient biocides known to man. Whilst being totally safe, it is 300 times more effective than bleach and is almost instant in its effect. Hypochlorous is a natural chemical already existing in the body, so animals that have shown a sensitivity with other products in the past, will not suffer any adverse reactions to Leucillin. It`s 100% safe to use on sensitive areas such as, cuts and open minor wounds and is completely harmless should it be licked off the treated area. https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/leucillin-antiseptic-spray

Healing Balm A versatile healing balm that can be used on minor cuts, scrapes, sores or dry skin. Perfect as a paw balm for dry and cracked pads or for crusty noses, mud fever and general winter skin woes.

Ideal to use as a protective barrier and the perfect partnership with Green Clay & Leucillin

A beautiful blend of Sweet Almond, Coconut oil, Beeswax and a selection of herbs including Calendula for its anti-inflammatory & moisturising properties, Plantain to promote healing, Comfrey for its well known soothing & healing abilities, Yarrow as a wound healer and Rosemary for its anti-bacterial property. https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/comfort-balm-horse-hound

The Photizo Vetcare is a valuable tool for health professionals and owners alike. Photizo has a powerful combination of pre-programed 31 second doses of pulsating red and infra red LED Phototherapy.

It is widely known for helping with arthritic and muscular conditions but it is also excellent for accelerating the healing of wounds, injuries and skin complaints. This is really important in the Winter months as even the smallest cut or wound can become infected due to wet, muddy and gritty conditions underfoot.

I have had excellent results treating a horse with severe mud fever that meant he was unable to be turned out in a paddock. The area was cleaned with Leucillin and a twice daily treatment with the Photizo meant that the healing time was greatly reduced. When the skin was healed enough to allow turn out, a thick paste of clay was applied to the area for added protection.

https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/photizo-vetcare

Caroline Hearn MICHT, Dip ICAT. MIIAT - Human, Canine & Equine Sports Therapist

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

Adding Variation to Raw Diets

If you have been feeding raw complete minces for a while and want to start including some DIY meals, it is important to provide a variety of proteins in order to offer a broad range of nutrients and prevent any deficiencies.

Feeding a selection of fresh food and making full use of seasonal variation means that each meal is an opportunity to add nourishment, support good health, build immunity and increase vitality in our dogs.

 Muscle meat

The majority of a raw diet is made up of muscle meat, and depending on which type of model you feed it could be as much as 80% as in the 80-10-10 (80% muscle meat,10% offal & 10% raw bone) or, in the Barf model 70%, allowing for the addition of vegetables.

Try and offer a selection of meat from different species, ideally 4 or 5 over a month if you can, plus an oily fish. This can include beef, chicken, turkey, pork, buffalo, venison, rabbit, tripe, guinea fowl, goat and lamb, etc.

Rotate white and red meat from different species but also vary the cuts within the same species. So, for example include chicken thighs rather than just feeding breast meat.

Replace some of the proteins with wild game when it is in season, such as pheasant, partridge, duck and venison.

If free range or grass-fed proteins can be introduced, even in small quantities, there is higher nutritional value, particularly with levels of Omega 3 fatty acids.

When making  DIY meals for your dog it is important to  establish the difference between what is fed as muscle meat and what is offal, that way you can calculate the 10% offal ration (5% liver, 5% other offal)  into your meal plan.

 Heart

Although the heart is an internal organ it is often confused as being offal when actually it is a muscle, and a very hard working muscle at that!

Where it does have its similarities is the amount in which it is fed.

It is a rich meat, high in blood content, which like liver can cause diarrhoea if fed in large amounts.

Introduce slowly and work up to between 5% and 10% until your dog can tolerate it. It is not required in large amounts or on a daily basis, but you can incorporate it into the diet within your monthly food balance plan. It is a nutrient dense addition and generally it is cheap to buy, having fallen out of fashion in our own diets over the years.

Heart is high in taurine, iron, folate, carnitine, thiamine, conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), gamma linolenic acid (GLA) selenium and B vitamins.

It is particularly high in Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) which is needed to optimize heart rhythm. As CoQ10 levels decrease with age, it is a valuable addition to your senior dog`s diet. Trials show that heart failure patients have low levels, and supplementation can help to stabilise the disease.

With twice as much collagen and elastin as other muscle meat it is a perfect dietary addition for working or competition dogs to prevent fatigue, as well as providing added support for the musculoskeletal system.

 Tongue

This is another protein that’s regarded as muscle meat which can be a little high in fat, so is one to limit if your dog has a pancreas issue or is on a strict weight loss plan.

 Gizzards

Chicken, duck and turkey gizzards have goods levels of iron, selenium, zinc, riboflavin, niacin, choline, copper and vitamin B12. Gizzards are fed as muscle meat.

 Lungs

Lungs, also referred to as “lights,” have some muscle meat and some organ content, so don`t really fit into one specific category.

It can cause loose stools if fed in large amounts or if fed alongside offal, so although a worthwhile addition it is best to limit the amount fed in a single meal and not to exceed 15%.

 Trachea

Great as a natural chew to clean the teeth, and particularly helpful for senior dogs who can no longer handle bones due to missing teeth or gum problems. Trachea is naturally high in glucosamine and chondroitin so supportive to joints. Lamb tracheas are better for small dogs and beef tracheas are suitable for medium to large dogs.

 Offal

Offal makes up 10% of the diet, 5% of which should be liver and the other 5% made up of kidney, spleen, pancreas, testicles and brain. Offal is different from muscle meat in that they are internal organs which secrete.

The inclusion of offal in the raw or home cooked diet provides an abundance of vitamins and minerals. Just introduce into the diet very gradually and adjust to what your dog’s system can cope with to avoid stomach upsets.

 Liver

Liver is the most nutrient dense of the internal organs and makes up 5% of the offal requirement in your dog’s diet.

If you are buying complete meals, you will see on the label that it states 5% liver and 5% other offal.

It provides an abundance of vitamin A, copper, vitamin D, vitamin K, vitamin C, vitamin E, folic acid, choline, vitamin B6, B12, magnesium, iron, thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, folate, selenium, biotin, calcium and phosphorous.

Some people feed liver just twice a week and others, due to the dog’s sensitivity to larger amounts, just add a small amount every day.

 Kidneys

Kidney would be added to make up the other 5% of the offal requirement, possibly mixed with one of the others on the offal list.

It is a good source of vitamin B12, B6, riboflavin, carnitine, iron and folate.

 Pancreas (sweetbreads or thymus)

Pancreas is not always easy to get hold of, but you can ask your butcher or food supplier to source some for you.

It contains a rich supply of digestive enzymes and is a worthwhile addition to any dog’s diet but is particularly good if you’re feeding a dog with a pancreatic insufficiency.

 Spleen

Spleen is another organ that can be difficult to find but can be ordered from a butcher, or you can ask your food supplier if it is included in any of their offal mixes.

It provides good levels of iron, niacin, riboflavin, vitamins B12 & B6, selenium, zinc, and a broad range of amino acids.

 Fish and Shellfish

Most modern-day diets, for ourselves and our dogs, are too high in Omega 6 and 9 due to processed grains, cereals and vegetable oils, which can lead to inflammation, faster aging and can predispose the body to disease.

In contrast, Omega 3 fatty acids offer a wealth of health benefits including anti- inflammatory properties, healthy skin & coat, normal metabolism, joint health and slowing the ageing process as well as supporting brain and cognitive function.

As you can see, this is an important addition to the diet of dogs with skin issues, joint pain, and is an essential for senior dogs in particular.

Feeding the actual fish has far more benefits than fish oil, which can quickly go rancid, causing the inflammation we were trying to prevent.

Pollution is also a consideration when choosing fish. The cleanest are:

·        Sardines, mackerel, pilchards, herring, sprats, halibut, anchovies, whitebait and trout.

·        Mussels and green lipped mussels are good for joint health.

Other forms of Omega 3 are hemp oil, chia seeds, flax seed oil, seaweed, eggs, pumpkin seeds and phytoplankton.

Should your dog hate raw fish and completely refuse to eat it, then the tinned sardines, pilchards or mackerel are a good substitute in either spring water or tomato juice which can be gently rinsed off or drained.

Try and include an oily fish into your dog’s diet two to three times a week.

 Eggs

Eggs provide a high quality, complete source of amino acids which are the building blocks of protein.

A good source of vitamin A, vitamin B12, riboflavin, iron, folate, zinc, selenium, fatty acids, choline, fat soluble vitamin E, D and K.

Just one egg will provide 13 essential vitamins and minerals, including lutein which is essential for eye health.

Free range eggs offer far greater levels of nutrition as the birds would have benefited from a natural lifestyle of foraging and have had sunlight on their backs.

Duck eggs have a larger yolk to white ratio and are higher in protein, fat and contain more Omega 3.

Quail have larger amounts of vitamin B1 and 5 times as much iron and potassium as hen’s eggs. Their protein value is 13% compared to 11% in hen’s eggs. Quail eggs rarely cause allergies, so certainly worth a try if your dog can`t usually tolerate hens’ eggs.

 Bones

Raw edible bones will make up on average 10% of your dog’s meals but sometimes as much as 30% and are an important requirement of the diet.

Bones provide calcium, phosphorous, magnesium, potassium and, depending on the type of bone fed, a supply of fat, cartilage and collagen.

They are also needed in the diet to keep the stools firm, and while most dogs will be fine with 10% bone, occasionally you will come across dogs who require more to keep their faeces firm, and others who will always need offal or vegetables in their diets in order to cope with 10% or they become constipated. Therefore, it is important to feed each dog as an individual.

Raw bones are regarded as either edible, which add to the calcium quota, or recreational, which provide very little calcium but give mental stimulation and teeth cleaning benefits.

Edible bones are raw bones that are completely consumed, usually in one sitting. Examples would be chicken and duck wings, lamb ribs, chicken backs, chicken and duck feet, chicken necks and pigs trotters.

 Vegetables and Berries

The inclusion of vegetables, herbs and berries in the diet provide, phytonutrients which are compounds found in plants with health giving properties, anti-oxidants which protect cells from free radicals and dietary fibre  that acts as a prebiotic to stimulate the growth of beneficial gut bacteria.

Look to add some vibrant leafy green to your dog’s meals, such as kale, spinach, parsley, broccoli, chard, dandelion leaves and red and purple berries including raspberry, blueberry and blackberry.

Start off with a small amount and build up to approximately 10-15% of the meal, if this suits your dog. Vegetables need to be either lightly steamed or feed raw and put into a blender to make a thick puree, this will break down the tough cellular wall in the vegetables and make them more digestible.

Caroline Hearn - Hedgerow Hounds

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk